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Today I turn to my great-great-grandfather Thomas - or Tom, to his siblings. Tom is the middle child, between Weeden and Anne (older) and Fanny and George (younger), though we mustn't forget little Isabella, who is the youngest of all and not yet old enough to write.

We first meet Tom on 5th October 1822, shortly after his thirteenth birthday. It's a short letter, but it paints an enthusiastic picture, perhaps of a trip to Harrow:

My dear Weeden

I have not written you a letter for a long time. This morning after 10 O’clock we had a theme, it was on “Truth”. I wrote down to the bottom of the second page. I daresay that little George thought it rather funny that we dissapeared, for he must have thought so, I think as he did not see us go away. I hope you spent the day very agreably. I am sure I did, as we were coming home in the coach we began to sing “A Frog he would a wooing go”, &c. I dare say the people who passed by did not much care for our beautiful singing, or the Coachman either. We were at home at about a quarter after 11 O’clock. —Not quite so late.
I remain, yours,

ever affectionately,

T. Butler


Tom's father (also Weeden) was in the habit of appending notes of his own to his children's letters to his eldest son. In this case, he adds: "The children, dear Weeden, not your father, sang merrily. I was glad to notice their joy. W.B." Was he worried that it might appear undignified in a father, a priest, a headmaster, to sing about a Frog's adventures? Weeden had been widowed earlier that year, and perhaps that too was an element in his reassurance.

Tom was something of a worry to his sisters. Here's Fanny complaining about him to Weeden in a letter written in the Autumn of... well, I'm not sure which year, because it's undated (even the season is only implied by her concern for fires and muffetees). But I'm guessing 1822 or 1823, because it seems a little on the young side.

My dear Weeden

We began fires today. I got up at 8 o’clock this morning. Tom will not write to you because he says that it would be a waste of paper. Tom has been told more than once that he will be an old Batchelor & I think it is very likely to be true if he indulges such miserly opinions as these. Mr Dyer preached a sermon this morning that Papa says he remembers having read 4 or 5 times before. If you want some white muffetees for your wrists you can get them for 6d a pair at Carter’s. I remain

F. Butler


Perhaps Fanny's mind is set on misers because their next-door neighbour at the time, John Camden Neild, was a notorious miser, who (according to Wikipedia): "was so frugal with worldly pleasures that for a while he had not a bed to lie on. His dress consisted of a blue swallow-tailed coat with gilt buttons, brown trousers, short gaiters, and shoes which were patched and generally down at the heels. He never allowed his clothes to be brushed, because, he said, it destroyed the nap. He continually visited his numerous estates, walking whenever it was possible, never went to the expense of a great-coat, and always stayed with his tenants, sharing their coarse meals and lodging."

Anyway, Fanny's letter prompts another paternal PS:

Dear Weeden,

I let you have this letter for two reasons: first, to let you see the hurry of Fanny’s scrawl; which, secondly, exactly justifies Tom; who only declared he did not like to waste good paper by scribbling. Now, as I give the paper to them all, he could not object to writing out of covetousness; though, perhaps, he & Fanny are both idle. The one scrawls down what comes uppermost, the other declines such waste of paper.

I am, truly, yours,

Weeden Butler


Fanny to Weeden 2

Tom's laziness is not his only fault. Anne reports to Weeden on 27th April, 1824 about a more serious trespass:

My dear Weeden,

I have seen a great deal this week but do not know whether you will like to hear all about it. ...

Tom, Strachey & Charles Hancock were fishing in Kensington Gardens one day last week & ??? came & took them before a magistrate, he happened not to be at home & his wife did not like to let them go before he came home so she ??? ??? [staid?] with them in a room at his house. You may suppose that they were not a little frightened; the men talked of keeping them in the guard room all that night, & then writing to Papa the next morning. The Lady of the house heard the name of Strachey & asked him if he was a relation of Sir John & Lady Strachey, he said he was and she said she did not think a young gentleman of that name would have committed so bad an action as to rob the King of his property. Tom began to make apologies for himself & the others, Charles Hancock looked very grave, which made Strachey ready to laugh, but he was obliged to look very grave. Tom began to cry, & at last, when the Lady found that her husband did not come home, made them promise that they would never fish in the Gardens again, & then let them come home. They had been there two or three times before, but had escaped from the men. John Wyld used to give the men some money to get some bread, & then ask leave to fish, the men told him that he might fish if he took care not to let them see him, but if they saw him they should be obliged to take him up; when the men came to take them up, Tom advised them to run off, but they were too much afraid.


Thank goodness for the magical power of the Strachey name! I'm not sure exactly which Strachey this is, by the way, though his is certainly the family that later gave rise to Lytton of that ilk. A couple of months earlier Anne had described him in strict mourning ("He looks thinner than ever in black") for his aunt, Lady Strachey - Julia, wife of Sir Henry the first Baronet, who died on 12th February. But my idle Googling has so far failed to turn up any younger brother of Sir Henry to be his father, and no "Sir John" at all in that generation. Clearly some mistake - but mine, Anne's, or the magistrate's wife's? I feel a visit to the Strachey tombs in Chew Magna coming on. In any case, being the nephew of a baronet (or one of the nephew's companions) is, then as now, a sound method for getting away with petty crime.

We don't hear of Tom indulging in similar adventures thereafter, but Anne is still worried about his future. On 6th July she writes again, in the wake of the death of a young friend, William Gardiner, probably from tuberculosis:

Mrs Read went to see Miss Gardiner and Mrs Wishart, a few days ago, they were pretty well, but of course very dull and low-spirited. They say that poor William wrote a letter to Mr Gardiner, & another to Isabella about a month or six weeks before his death, and put them among his papers, which were not to be read till after his death. I think Tom will begin to think a little more seriously about the way in which he spends his time. I was talking to him last night about it, and he said with the greatest unconcern that at any rate he would go for a chimney sweeper or a scavenger. He seems to have a great desire to be a bookseller I think. He said also that he thought he should do for an auctioneer. I think I shall go to Chelsea church tonight. Tom says he intends to begin to study tomorrow. I advise[d] him to have some good historical or Geographical work in constant reading, as he has so very little idea of either history or geography.


In retrospect, it seems ironic that a boy who considered becoming a scavenger, a bookseller or an auctioneer should end up as Assistant Secretary to the British Museum during its most, shall we say, acquisitive period. But this is to peer too curiously into the glass of futurity. At the end of August Tom, not yet quite 15, moved to Bordeaux to work for his wine merchant uncle. His last letter from what we might called the Weeden Schooldays collection, from 21st May 1825, is prettily written, but speaks of a certain homesickness, I think:

In what part of the playground is the pump to be erected? You say near your willow is it close to the top bench in Fanny’s Garden, or where? Has H. Wylde still a garden in the old place. My last letter to you was written rather in a hurry, therefore I beg you will excuse me if you did not find it very interesting. I hope however that you were all contented with my letters to you. How does the violin get on. My music master is beginning to teach me some tunes. Did you see Strachey when he came to our house. I suppose you have been to see him and Stratford lately? Remember me kindly to them when you see them. My Uncle left Bordeaux rather sooner than I expected. Have you seen Edwin Dawes lately? How does he get on in the world. I believe it was settled that he should be a clergyman. Has he got rid of the impediment in his speech which he had when he was with us, if he has not I doubt if he will ever be able to preach so as to be well understood.


Poor, stranded Tom. And less than three years ago he was singing about frogs.
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Over the course of May and June 1824 Anne Butler, then aged sixteen, took a trip from London to relatives in Burntisland in Fife, by way of Cheltenham, Birmingham, Lichfield, Derby (where she hung out with the Philosophical Society), the Peak District and York, in the company of her godmother, Mrs Vaughan. In her letters she comments on all these places, as well as Edinburgh - so, if you're interested in what impression the journey might have made on a teenage girl in the Regency period, and what kinds of tourist activities were available, sit back and read on. You will get some leeches as a bonus.

(In what follows I've taken out passages that don't relate directly the journey, and I've added a few annotations where I hope it will be helpful.)

30 April 1824 [London]

My dear Weeden,

I have a few minutes to spare this morning and therefore take the opportunity of writing to you. I am to set of tomorrow about 4 o’clock with Tom & William, but the latter is only going as far as the coach with me, & Tom is going all the way to Cheltenham. I think that instead of Tom taking care of me, I shall have to take care of him.(1) He is not accustomed to travelling, and to add to his trouble he will have to sleep at the inn, & look after himself all Sunday I believe, for as Mrs Vaughan is only upon a visit herself, I do not think she will be able to ask him to go home with us. He is to return on Monday. …

I remain

Your affectionate sister

Anne V. Butler

(1) At this point Anne is 16 years old, and younger brother Tom (her protector) only 14.

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13 May 1824

My dear Tom

Many thanks for your nice letter which we received yesterday. I am glad to hear that you arrived safely in London. I dare say you were not sorry to reach home after so long and dull a day. … I am sorry to say that Mrs Vaughan is rather fatigued by the journey, but I hope after a few days rest she will be quite recovered. We slept at Birmingham on Monday night and set off for Derby at 7 the next morning and therefore had no opportunity of seeing the place, but what I did see gave me no favourable opinion of it. We passed through Litchfield and while they changed horses we had time to see the outside of the beautiful Cathedral. I wish we had had time to go inside to see the monuments.

We arrived here [Derby] at about 12 o'clock on Tuesday, and Mr & Mrs Finlay came at night. We all went yesterday to see the Porcelain Manufactory which is extremely interesting. We saw the whole process from the making [?] of the clay to the beautiful china that we see in the shops. There was a boy only 14 years old who painted landscapes beautifully. You can have no idea of the number of hands a cup must go through before it is finished. We did not leave Cheltenham till ?? o’clock, and therefore had time to see the public rooms, & Dr White would write our names in the book of arrivals, so that perhaps you have seen them in the newspaper. We also went with Dr & Mrs White to the pump room and walks which were crowded with people. The Bishop of Bangor and the Duke of Buccleuch were there. I tasted the water at ????. I did not much like it but it only tastes a little salt.

There are several pretty old churches at Derby, and the church of All Saints is something like our new church at Chelsea. Mr Holworthy(1) has a very pretty place here called Green Hill, it is just before you enter the town, the house is very large and he has a beautiful garden. …

I believe we going in a day or two to see the Marble works and the silk and lace??? Manufactories, so that I shall not close this letter till I have seen something more. We are going today to see the Infirmary, which I believe is the finest in England. Kean & some of the London actors were in Derby last week, but the people here give very little encouragement to the theatre. I observe that the inhabitants of this place pronounce it as if it were spelt Darby, and not Derby: they have a very peculiar manner of speaking, and I remark that they generally put the letter G at the end of their words, thus they say thing-ge, king-ge, &c.

Dr Forester(2) is a very odd man, do you remember the way Gordon used to talk sometimes for fun? Well he speaks much in the same manner, he puts me sometimes in mind of Willets, he makes the same kind of faces, and stoops as he does when he sits with his legs crossed. I can assure you he is a man of some consequence here. He made the plan of the infirmary, and ??? giving a donation of 50£. He attends as Physician to the Infirmary for nothing. He belongs to the order of Knights-Templars, and there are only six of the order in England. I think that Gordon would be delighted to see him, he understands every kind of machinery and gives up much of his time to the study of it. …

I am writing this in my room with one of my fingers quite dead with the cold so that I can hardly hold my pen. I really think I shall have chilblains again if this weather continues. We had a dinner party on Wednesday and we are to have another today (Friday). We have had an invitation for tomorrow but I do not know whether we shall go yet. We are a good large party of ourselves. Mrs & Mrs Holworthy and Miss Wright (Mrs H’s sister),(3) Mr & Mrs Finlay, Mrs Vaughan & myself. Dr Forester’s grounds touch those of Mr Holworthy. Mr H has several pets as a Dog, a Duck, some pigeons & some partridges, and an old poney aged 40 years, all these live on the lawn before the house. I think of all these the greatest pet is the Duck, it follows him about wherever he goes, and will even come in at the dining and drawing room windows if they are open as they reach to the ground. His dog is a pointer and is called Don. Mr H has an open chaise and a close carriage, and Mr Finlay has his, so that some day we are to go in a large party for a drive.

I believe we are going to Buxton from this, & then to York and afterwards upon a visit to some friends of Mrs Vaughan. So tell Mrs Read with my best love, that I do not know what I shall do for white frocks, as I have only one and that is almost dirty, & I shall not be able to get it washed in a day here as I could at home. …

Believe me to be your ever affectionate sister Anne V. Butler

(1) James Holworthy (1781–1841), artist and close friend of Turner.
(2) Dr Richard Forester (1771-1843). President of the Derby Philosophical Society from 1815.
(3) Anne Holworthy (nee Wright) was the niece of Joseph Wright of Derby.


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30 June 1824 [Burntisland, Fife]

My dear Weeden

Many thanks for your nice long letter, which I fear you will think I ought to have answered sooner. This was my intention, but several things have occurred to prevent me. I think I am always unlucky, I do not know whether I mentioned in my last letter a fall I had, when in Edinburgh. As I was stepping out of a coach at Mrs Charteris’s door, the step was not firm and it slipped from under my foot, so that I fell down, & hurt my arm upon the corner of the pavement, it was stiff for some days but is now well; I think that if it had not been noticed in time it would have been very bad; but I had some egg skin put on it immediately.

About 10 days ago, as I wished to be friends with Mrs Boog’s dog, I went to see it fed by the servant, who said that it was very quiet, & would not bite, so ventured to pat it; at first it was very good natured, but after a little while, it found out that I was a stranger, snarled & snapped at me, happily it did not bite me though it hit me a very hard blow upon the face with its mouth, & tore my frock very much; I felt the effects of the blow for some days, & the pain was so great at first that I thought he had bit me. The servant beat him from me, or I do not think I should have got off so well as I did.

My finger that was so bad is nearly well, but I shall not be able to use it for some time. Last Saturday I found that the third finger of the same hand was beginning to swell & looked very red. I felt pain in it, the night before, but as I had been working, I thought that I might have run my needle into it, but as it got worse, on Saturday, Mrs Vaughan sent for the doctor, Mr Philp [?], to see it, & he said I must have two leeches on it directly, before it got worse. Jane Boog gave up 4 hours of her time which is now very precious to put them on my finger, & after all, we could only make one of them stick on, but it had the desired effect, for the next day the pain was almost gone, & on Monday it was quite well. I hope I shall meet with no more accidents, or I shall grow quite idle, not being able to work or do any thing that requires my hand.

You will have seen in the letter I wrote to Papa from Edinburgh, that Jane Boog is going to be married, in less than a fortnight, so you may suppose we are very busy just now. William Boog is coming next Wednesday. I believe he is to be the best man, you will not perhaps know what this means; it answers to the best maid or Bride’s maid who attends the Lady, so the best man should attend the gentleman.

Mr Sadler went up in a baloon [sic] at Edinburgh on Monday; this is a very uncommon sight in Scotland, I believe it is the first that has been seen here large enough to carry any body in it; and therefore attracted great attention. The gardener who was at Mrs Charteris’s that day, was heard talking about it very much, he said he thought it was very presumptuous in Sadler to try to get to Heaven that way (for he thought that this was what Sadler was trying to do) but that he was in his master’s territory; and he only hoped he would return safe. When asked who he meant by Mr Sadler’s master, he said, “the Devil.” Perhaps you have seen an account of the ascent in the newspapers. It crossed the firth, & at one time appeared quite near, we could distinguish two people in it and that it looked as if it were made of a plaid; but this was not without the assistance of a good telescope. …

In answer to your question as to where the Derbyshire spar comes from, I must tell you it is principally taken from the Peak Hole, which cavern is under Peveril Castle. This is a most extraordinary place, but perhaps you have seen pictures of it, nothing however but the reality can give you a true idea of its wonders. I am sorry that we did not go into the interior of this astonishing place, but it would have been very disagreeable to pass so far under ground, in a narrow passage walking almost double, till we came to the boat, which is only large enough to hold one at a time, & the person who is thus conveyed is obliged to lie down (as the passage is not high enough to allow him to sit up) and he must be pushed along by a man who walks behind the boat in the water, after proceeding some way in this manner we should have entered a very spacious cavern. If the party had all been young, we might have done this, but the fatigue would have been too great for Mr & Mrs Finlay, Mrs Vaughan, & Mrs Holworthy. I think that when the bustle of Jane’s wedding is over, I must again read “Peveril of the Peak.” I only heard parts of it, but did not read it through when we had it at home, & therefore do not remember much of it.

I cannot describe to you the beauty of York Minster, it is really grand beyond description, but I have a York guide, that Mrs Vaughan bought for me, & when I return home you shall read it. You will see from the last letter, (or I believe it was the one before it) that I wrote to Papa, the danger we were in at Wakefield, by the falling of three of the horses, & therefore I shall not say more upon the subject. …

This is a very pretty place & when I am able I hope to take some views which I think you will be pleased with. I intend to collect some shells for Isabella when we go down to the sands, which are about 5 minutes walk off. But we have only been once that way, and then we had not time to stop to pick them up; I hear that there are some very pretty shells to be found, and I hope they will amuse little Isabella. I shall expect to see a very great improvement in her at my return, I hope she is learning to work as well as read now. Fanny will be able to teach her now that she is at home. I believe when we return it will be by sea. This will be a change, but I like travelling by land better. However the steam boats are very large.

When we were at Edinburgh we went to see the Castle, we went up the Calton Hill & Salisbury Crags, but have not yet been up Arthur’s Seat, which I believe a very great Tickler (as Mr Finlay would say) but I hope before we leave Scotland, that I shall be able to say, I have been up it. This Hill has a very grand appearance from all sides, as it is in the form of a lion couching. The eye, nose & mouth are very distinctly seen, the form of the head is altogether very good & and the front paws are very perfect. Princes Street is like our Bond Street, a fashionable lounge where all the Dandies in Edinburgh go to walk. But Bond Street must not be compared to it in length or beauty. It is said that the King was particularly struck with it. George Street is also very beautiful, having at one end Melville’s Monument & at the other St George’s Church. I suppose you know that all the houses in Edinburgh are built of stone but this street loses much of its beauty from having from having St Andrew’s Church (which is situated in the middle of it) project, & the Physicians’ Hall, which is directly opposite, recede. Thus the people say that the modesty of the Physicians & the forwardness of the Clergy have spoilt the finest street in Europe.

There is a very high hill near here called the Bin[n], but we have not yet been up it, but we have been over several of the smaller ones. I can assure you we did not pass your birthday without thinking of you, but all drank your health. Stirling Christie’s was on the same day, but he is a year younger than you and Elizabeth Dawes’ birthday is on the 22 we thought of her also. There has been a very dreadful fire in Edinburgh last week, such a one has not been known here for 34 years. Pray remember me to Papa, Mrs Read, Tom, Fanny and George. I hope little Isabella will remember me when I return. … Mrs Boog & Mrs Vaughan & all friends here desire to be kindly remembered to Papa, they have all asked very particularly after you. I hope you will think this a long letter, I have been nearly all day writing it. I remain your very affectionate sister.

Anne V. Butler
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My family history entries used to be a regular feature of this blog, but have rather trailed off recently, in part for lack of time, in part because I'd already picked the low-hanging fruit on the family tree. It's long been my ambition to do something more substantial with the Butlers in due course, but I'd thought of it as a retirement project - which indeed it still is. However, recent events have made me consider starting a little earlier.

A few months ago I was contacted by my third-cousin (once removed) Michael, of whose existence I had been aware but whom I had never met. He had recently inherited from his elder brother a large number of family papers, and very generously offered to share them with me - and, indeed, to give me a portrait of my great*4 grandmother, Margaret Kynnier, born 1736. Her picture is now hanging at the top of the stairs:

Margaret Oswald

Just as exciting, though, was a cache of letters from my great-great-grandfather Thomas and his siblings, written between 1822 and 1825 to their elder brother Weeden, who was then at Harrow. Weeden (the third of that name) carefully preserved a good many of them, and together they constitute a fascinating (at least to me) source for what life was like at 6 Cheyne Walk at the time, when Weeden's father (also Weeden) was running a classical school there. Everyday life, the activities of the siblings and the school pupils, visits to different parts of the country, public events, worries and illnesses, are all laid forth in the disparate voices of Weeden's four siblings:

Anne (b. 1808), aged 13-16 over the period of the letters, and the most prolific correspondent. Anne Vaughan Butler - suspected

Tom (b. 1809), aged 12-15 Thomas Butler2041

Fanny (b. 1811), aged 10-14 Fanny Butler (Christie) Front

George (b. 1813), aged 8-12.

The baby of the family, Isabella (b. 1820), is too young to write herself, but a presence throughout.

Luckily, Weeden Senior taught his children good penmanship, so the letters are mostly legible, though several raise the stakes by using cross-hatching - a way of saving paper by writing twice on the same sheet at 90-degree angles:

1823-12--- Anne to Weeden  2

All in all it's quite a treasure trove. I'll give you a few highlights in the entries to come. And here, to start us off, is a letter from Fanny, then aged 11, dated Sunday 22nd June 1823, the day after Weeden's 17th birthday.

My dear Weeden

We all drank your health yesterday but Anne, who was not returned from school. My Holidays began on the 10th of the month. Mrs Wishart, Brunell, Mr Leeds and his two daughters, Mr Bey and Mr & Mrs Quinby and Willets were here at the play on Tuesday they all acted very well, Henry Hancock was compared with Kean. He and Tom acted the best of all.

Thursday 26th. Maryann Leeds was continually saying to me that it was very well acted. I sat next to her. She and her sister Susan had never been at a Play in their lives before so it was a great treat to them. Brunell sat just behind me. I asked him if he remembered when they acted a Play here before and when he was an old woman. He said yes but that was nothing compared to this.

Anne is now marking Studholme’s and Strachey’s stockings. I think George will not be satisfied till he fills the house with Cats for he has been out today to get one.

I went yesterday to the house of old Mr Griffith with Papa who went to see him and his son Abel. It seems Griffith had pawned his coat which was a very good one, for the man gave him £2/1s for it and being in want of money he had gone I believe to ask his father for some more. His father would not listen to him so he shot him dead in the Temple and then laying down on the table the Pistol he had shot his Father with he walked to the looking glass to see where most effectually to shoot himself. I staid down in the parlour while Papa went upstairs to look at them both. He could see no likeness in Griffith to what he was when Papa saw him last. He was still bleeding at the mouth though he had been dead I believe 2 days and the verdict was settled at 11 o’clock on Tuesday night. It was brought in Murder and Suicide. William has heard that his body will be buried in the cross road at Pimlico.

One of our hens has been set for duck’s eggs.

I remain
Your affectionate sister
Frances Mary M. Butler


"Brunell" is of course Isambard Kingdom Brunel, then 17, a Cheyne Walk neighbour and a former pupil at the school. I don't know if it's widely known that he acted the part of an old woman, but therein lies my flimsy justification for the clickbait title. As for the case of Abel Griffith and his father, it was well known at the time - and in fact he was the very last suicide to be buried, according to tradition, at a crossroads; the law would be changed just a month later. The place of his burial is the current site of Victoria Station, apparently. At the time of his death Abel was a 22-year-old law student, and it seems quite likely that he, like Brunel, was one of Weeden Senior's former pupils, since he clearly knew him from some time before - and felt concerned enough in his affairs to take his 11-year-old daughter to the place where his corpse was being stored. Different times.

Going West

Jan. 3rd, 2026 09:03 pm
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I'm now back in Bristol, and the duties of 2026 beckon, so I will wrap up my account of my Japan trip quickly. After Onomichi my next stop was Kobe, where I was meeting up with friends: Mitsuko for lunch, Yuka for dinner, and then Ayako and Irina the following day, when we visited the Kitano Ijinkan where Western merchants lived when Kobe was a treaty port after the Meiji restoration.

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We visited two of the Ijinkan houses - ones I recommended, having been to them before: the English house (with its Sherlock Holmes and Alice themes) and the Trick House over the road. It's strange to think that Conan Doyle and Alice Hargreaves (nee Liddell) lie just a few miles apart, in graves in the New Forest - and are also juxtaposed here in such a different context.

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Then it was on to Odawara, where I spent Christmas day itself in the warm bosom of the Kodaka family, where three generations had gathered to partake in the sacred Christmas ritual of eating KFC. The little boy, Rui, was particularly charming - going off into another room and calling out "Irasshaimase!" every now and then while people went in and pretended to buy things.

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One great thing about staying there is the view from my bedroom window, at least when the weather is right - as it was on Boxing Day morning.

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Finally, I went back to Tokyo and a couple of nights with Rei (my former tenant) and her husband Shuzo in their flat in Kanda. It was great to catch up with them. And my friend Hiroe took me to a puppet theatre, which has been going since the 1970s, just five minutes' walk from Shinjuku station. There we saw a rendition of an old Slovak folk tale about a mistreated girl who has uncanny encounters with the spirits of the months while out picking strawberries...

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And that was that - back to Bristol, then a quick trip to Brighton to see my brother and ring in the New Year, and now I'm in my own study again for the foreseeable.

In spare moments during this trip I was a) reading the Kalevala with profit and pleasure and b) copying out 200-year-old letters, or rather scans of them. Much more on that in entries yet to come, but I've been making some interesting discoveries of the family history variety.
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This is my second and last day in Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture. I'm writing about it now even though my last entry was so recent, because I don't know when I last visited a town I liked so well. (Sorry if a bit of Regency diction creeps in from time to time - I'm also transcribing some letters from that period in my spare moments, a subject for a later occasion.)

Onomichi (尾道 = "tail road") is not devoid of tourists, but most of the Western ones pass straight through. They get out at the station and immediately transfer to the little ferry that takes them over to the island of Mukaishima (a five-minute hop), and thence to the Shimanami Kaido cycle route across the Seto Inland Sea, a justly celebrated journey (though the only time I did it was on a rainy day and in a bus). I don't think many explore the town, which remains a bit of a hidden gem (or 穴場 - "hole place", in Japanese, as Mami informed me the other day). They should though, because it's really wonderful, at least if you share my tastes. Allow me to expatiate upon its charms under three broad heads.

First, physical geography. Onomichi is a town with a thin strip of flat land along the coast, where most of the shops are, then behind that a steeply rising hinterland. In this it resembles (on a much smaller scale) Kobe, where I'm going tomorrow, but the effect is more like that of a West country town - I was reminded oddly of Dartmouth. Mukaishima, though actually an island, feels like the far side of a river channel with a ferry connecting the two banks. Meanwhile, the narrow lanes and alleys above the town have more of a Cornish feel, with steps faced with granite in a more St Ives-ey manner. I got to know those steep lanes very well, because my hotel was at the very top of them, and it was not an easy climb on any of the three occasions I made it. (Luckily I'd forwarded my suitcase using the takkyubin, or it would have been impossible.) On the other hand, the view from my room is pretty damned good.

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Yep, that's my hotel right at the top.

When I arrived yesterday I was told that, because it was the winter solstice, the public bath would have yuzu floating in it - something I've long wanted to experience, though I didn't have the body confidence to do so, sadly.

On the other hand, I did have the confidence to order the celebrated Onomichi ramen at an establishment in the town. An amazing meal at 900 Yen, which is (I'm almost embarrassed to write) about £4.50 at current exchange rates:
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The second thing is cats. Onomichi is town of cats (which is presumably where the tails come from). Many of the cats are real, feral ones, lovingly fostered by the human population, but many are the inhabitants of stocks and stones, shrines and signs, and the twisty paths in the hills lead to many cat-haunted nooks, as you can see...

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Clearly a lot of these displays are old and/or in relative disrepair, but that is far from detracting from their charm, at least to me. Rather, it helps create what one of the signs I saw described as "cat Ihatov" - a word borrowed from Kenji Miyazawa, who made his home of Iwate into a kind of palimpsestic enchantment, Ihatov, overlaying the quotidian. Onomichi is that, too, for those with eyes to see - which are, needless to say, cat's eyes. I ate lunch in a rather hidden restaurant called 'Owl's House' on one of these little paths, naturally choosing the 'Meow Pizza' with its sardines and bonito flakes. Two of the local feral cats sat inside watching me as I ate.

All of which brings me to the third charm of Onomichi - and actually my initial reason for wanting to visit - which is that it was the setting for the 2005 anime series, Kamichu! - a truly charming story of a middle-school girl, Yurie, who awakes one morning to discover that she has become a Shinto kami. This is not, however, a chunibyou story - i.e. the tale of a middle-schooler with delusions of divine power. Yurie, a shy and unassertive girl, doesn't really know what to do with her new status, or even what she might represent as a divine being.

Anyway, I learned from various web sources that not only was Onomichi the setting, but that its geography was adhered to particularly closely - which indeed I found to be the case, from the ferry that takes Yurie between home and school, to the shrine where her friend Matsuri lives and the many other places featured in the series.

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By far the most moving thing to me, though, was seeing the school Yurie and her friends attended. I first saw it from above, coming down one of the steep slopes, so I had a good view of the roof:

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It was all there! The roof where Yurie first exercised her powers as a god! The raised part where Kenji held his solo calligraphy club! Even the ladder connecting the two!

Now, because I write about the motivations for literary and anime pilgrimages in my academic work you mustn't imagine that I'm immune to such things myself. On the contrary, I found the sight profoundly moving, and all the more so when, as I got closer, I realised that Yurie's school was no longer a school. The building had clearly not been used in some years. The gate to the playground was open, so I was able to look around.

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Not the least affecting was the set of swings, now consisting of the frame only, the swings themselves having been removed. ("What's their history?" "A 鞦韆". That's a free pun for fans of Shakespeare, playground equipment and ephemerality.)

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I don't know why the school closed, but as we are all aware, Japan's birthrate has been declining steadily and Onomichi's own population has begun to shrink. It's all a long way from 2005, still more from the 1980s, when the anime is actually set. (I did not find anybody in the town who remembered the anime, for that matter - not that I asked everyone. Just a couple of Ema at Misode Tenman-gu shrine - Matsuri's shrine - commemorating the 20th anniversary of the series, among many others praying to enter, or graduate successfully from, Hiroshima University.) I hope that Yurie can tame the poverty god, as she did in the series, in which she helped him become a cat.

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Having visited Onomichi, I also now understand why they made an episode based on Fight Club, but with cats. Or at least, I understand the cats bit.

Anyway, Onomichi is great, and you should visit it - tomorrow if possible, but at any rate very soon.
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I finished my last full day in Tokyo for now by meeting Yuki for lunch at a Taiwanese place, followed by mitsuan, and finally dinner with Miho and Yuko, where we talked over our slow-burn project to research chirimenbon (books made in the Meiji and Taisho eras for Western tourists, usually telling Japanese folk tales and translated by some notable authors of the time such as Lafcadio Hearn). Here is a lovely view of the three would-be researchers outside a Christmassy Tokyo Joshidai:

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On Wednesday I met my friend Mami at Haneda, and we flew to Nagasaki for a couple of days. I'd long wanted to visit, not least because this is the city that was the only toe-hold for direct contact between Japan and the West (more specifically the Dutch) from the 1630s to the 1850s - i.e. for most of the Edo period, when Japan had a policy of isolation (often known as sakoku). Even the Dutch, who were there purely as traders, were confined to a small artificial island known as Dejima - about 120/75m. (This was not reclaimed land, as I had somehow imagined, but was formed by a cutting a canal through a small peninsula.)

Dejima is no longer an island, but they've done a fine reconstruction job. Life there was rather more spacious than one might have enjoyed on a ship of the era, but it must have been tantalising being just a short bridge's width from the rest of the city. Nagasaki citizens weren't allowed in, either - though an exception seems to have been made for prostitutes.

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The tablet computer in the last picture shows Nagasaki as it would have looked at the time, with a clear view to the mouth of the bay - rather than with a bunch of buildings in the way.

Nagasaki is, by Japanese standards, a very cosmopolitan city, with its relative proximity to the Asian mainland (it has a famous Chinatown) and its history of Dutch and, before that, Portugese trade - which can be seen in the ubiquitous Castella cakes. Here and there, though, a trace of the old sakoku spirit still remains, as in this pair of QR codes, where the Japanese "Guidance to business opening hours" has been Englished simply as "For foreigner" - which felt a little on the nose!

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There's more to Nagasaki than Dejima, not least in terms of food. Most famous of all perhaps is Nagasaki champon, which, having been invented in Nagasaki by a Chinese restaurant owner, is as Japanese as chicken tikka masala is British. We sampled it in the original restaurant:

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Nagasaki bay, when seen from above, sans buildings, is lovely. Other highlights included the trams (I'm a sucker for a tram, and this is the third Japanese city I've seen them in after Matsuyama and Hakodate) and a really charming bookshop-cum-picture-book museum, which had something of the air of the Ghibli Museum in its architecture:

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We also took a day to visit Hui Ten Bosch - the Dutch theme park. I'm not sure what I was expecting, but it definitely wasn't this:

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And yet, in retrospect, how could it have been otherwise? Actually, Huis Ten Bosch is on a truly grand scale, and in terms of recreating buildings it puts even British Hills in Fukushima in the shade. Highly recommended if you find yourself on the shores of Omura bay with time on your hands!

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I said my goodbyes to Mami on Saturday and started working my way back to Tokyo, albeit by a very circuitous route. First stop was Miyajima, home of the famous floating torii gate. This was the one night of the trip when I splashed out on a ryokan, mostly so that I could stay overnight on Itsukushima island (where Miyajima is located). I'd been told that it was easier to beat the crowds if one stayed overnight, though to be honest the crowds weren't that big - no doubt because of the season. (There were, however, more Westerners in evidence here than anywhere else I've stayed.) This meant that I was able to experience the shrine about both low and high tides:

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It also got me this view from my bedroom window:

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And, of course, ryokan style meals. This was breakfast, before and after the battle:
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Altogether, an amazing place. The next day I set off on the next leg of my journey, to the place I'm writing this entry. But where is that place? Tune in next time to find out!

Fuyu Diary

Dec. 16th, 2025 01:51 am
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2025 has been quite a year, the second half being a distinct improvement on the first. The first six months saw various troubles come my way, including a) the threat of redundancy for me and my Cardiff colleagues; b) my brother having a serious stroke; c) the Supreme Court changing the meaning of the Equalities Act to the opposite of that intended by its authors, and the EHRC turning that up to 11; and d) the roof having to be removed from my house and rebuilt, due to a design flaw in its construction.

On these various fronts - work, family, societal, domestic - 2025 took quite a scunner to me, and the feeling's been mutual. However, the second half has mitigated some of these issues. The threat of redundancy passed, at least for me; my brother is recovering, although it's a long road; the EHRC appears to have overreached itself and its more radically exclusionary policies are getting some pushback, though we're currently in a very fragile place and the country is being kept in a perpetual ferment against imaginary enemies, of whom I am but one; and the roof situation is (almost) resolved, with the scaffolding coming down just yesterday.

Nevertheless, I needed a holiday, so when my daughter told me that she'd be away for Christmas I saw the opportunity to come to Japan on my own for a couple of weeks, which is where I am now - staying, for the moment at a friend's flat in Akasaka. The area is full of embassies (my friend and her husband are both translators/interpreters among other things, so it's handy for work) and the new Prime Minister lives about 10 minutes' walk away, so it's quite a swanky area, though the swank is mostly hidden behind high walls and fences.

Coming to Japan these days is in large part about seeing friends. I took Naoko and Eric, the flat owners, to dinner on the first night, and the next day went to a lovely party at Miho's, where I discovered that my Japanese is still good enough to have good conversations, and even (like everyone else) to make a little speech, even if my jetlagged appetite wasn't quite up to making the most of the goodies begroaning the table.

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Yesterday I took a side trip to Kawagoe in Saitama - just a 45 minute train from Ikebukuro - which contains a district known since the early Edo period as 'Koedo' or 'Little Edo'. If you're based in Tokyo it's probably the easiest place to get to if you want to see 'old-time' Japanese shops and houses, which escaped the various depredations of the twentieth century. It's also a good place to buy a pickled cucumber, as I did in honour of former tenant Yuko, whose grandfather (I think it was) used to be a cucumber farmer in the area.

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Kawagoe seems to be the kind of place that everyone knows about, but despite (or because of) being so easy to get to surprisingly few Tokyo-ites have actually visited, and I will be recommending it highly to my friends, as I do to you.

This is my first time in Japan in December, so I'm not sure it's a fair comparison, but I've been struck by the relative sparcity of tourists. In particular, there are very few Chinese here, no doubt in large part because the Chinese government (which has taken offence at some of the new PM's more combative remarks) has discouraged people from visiting. It's not quite 2022 levels, but this is the first time in a long time - certainly in Tokyo - that I've see so few foreigners, other than in the mirror.

Then to the 'Blue Cave' illuminations in Harajuku/Shibuya, where I met up with Yoshiko, who translated my book into Japanese, before going with her to meet her publisher, Manabe, in the fanciest tonkatsu place I've ever seen, The Pretty Pork Factory - with an extensive menus that allows you to choose the breed of pig and the cut of meat, for an experience of fine-tuned gourmandism.

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As you'll have noticed, there's no escaping Christmas in this non-Christian country, even if you wished to. I've been Whamageddoned several times, and in Kawagoe I was even treated to Noddy Holder telling me that it was Christmas at the top of his voice, not far from this fish and chip van. Not that I've any objection!

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One difference between UK English and US English (or at any rate some forms of it) is the appearance (or not) of the preposition in the phrase "He wrote (to) me."

From a UK perspective, the 'to' seems necessary because 'me' is the indirect object: it's the letter/email/text that gets written, not 'me'. 'To' is a semantic marker indicating the direct object's existence, even it is not explicitly mentioned.

Where the direct object *is* mentioned, the 'to' gets omitted in UK English as well: thus, "He wrote me a letter", not "He wrote to me a letter."

In US English, presumably, the fact that 'me' is the indirect object is seen as sufficiently obvious not to need the scaffolding of a preposition. Occasions where the 'me' in "He wrote me" would be a direct object are pretty rare, after all. Perhaps a character in a Pirandello play might say it about the author?

This got me wondering about other verbs. With "feed", for example, the Brits follow the American pattern: "I fed the child her tea" gets shortened to "I fed the child", not "I fed to the child." But *is* 'child' the indirect object in that sentence? It *feels* as if it's the direct object. But then, it's certainly operating differently from a sentence such as "I fed the child to the dragon." Perhaps it's simply habituation that makes "I fed the child" sound as natural to me as "He wrote me" sounds to an American?

On the other hand, with "give" the indirect object *has* to be mentioned, if only in pronoun form, in both the UK and the US, but the preposition becomes an optional extra. "I gave the book to her" can become "I gave her the book" or "I gave it (to) her". However, "I gave her" (with the book implied) doesn't work.

That's when I got out of the shower, so the story of language must do without an ending - but then, I'm trying to save water.
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When I was learning to read, my parents got hold of a rhyming ABC book. It was American, and inevitably I was frustrated by the final page. I don't think it was Dr Seuss's ABC, but we had quite a few of his, and his ABC illustrates the problem well enough.

Big Z, little z,
What rhymes with Z?
I do.
I am a Zizzer-Zazzer-Zuzz
As you can plainly see.


Why, I asked, has this book abandoned its rhyme scheme at the final hurdle, having been so strict about it hitherto? My parents, as I remember, hastily changed the subject. The loss of Britain's cultural hegemony was not, after all, a subject for the nursery, especially just before bedtime.

Later, of course, I learned the awful truth about the American pronunciation of the letter I had always known as Zed. Later still, it started to seep into British usage. I think that the phrase "Generation Z" was really the death-knell for Zed, already battered by the popularity of various rapper names, etc. In the mouth of a young person, especially, Zed will soon sound like a hipsterish affectation. Although it will probably be tolerated from elderly people such as myself, it will be at best a charming throwback to a former age, much like a penchant for the works of Vera Lynn.

Two (long) recent YouTube videos that I watched show this process in action. Both had their British presenters (one in his thirties, the other in his forties) pronounce the letter Z inconsistently. First Shaun, in his latest (excellent) analysis of the book The War on Science, starts with Zee, then goes to Zed, then back to Zee. Meanwhile, Simon from Cracking the Cryptic is equally unstable, saying Zed, Zee and then Zed again, while taking a frustratingly long time to notice that "NZ lamb dish rats" is an anagram of "Brahms and Liszt". Neither appeared to notice his own inconsistency. And why should they? In the grand scheme of things, etc....

But I do draw the line (of course, there is always a line) at British people and Australians saying "Dragonball Zee", especially if they are also fluent in Japanese and are thus aware that the Japanese pronunciation of that character is actually "Zetto". Yes, Trash Taste boys, I'm looking at you.
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Judging from interviews, every famous person seems to have been told by a careers teacher at some point that they would "Never amount to anything", "Just didn't have what it takes to make it as a professional" etc., but then went on to prove them gloriously wrong.

This never happened to me - in fact, I don't think I ever spoke to a careers teacher at all. Perhaps we didn't have one at my school? The traditional options were get married or work in the brewery/on the farm, so it would have been a rather dispiriting assignment, I imagine.

But are careers teachers universally this negative in their attitudes? Doesn't it seem like it would be the first thing you learn at careers-teacher school, "Don't tell children that they'll never amount to anything"? Is it some kind of reverse-psychology motivational tool, sparingly but deliberately deployed? Or are the celebs bending the truth a smidge? I don't know, but I'd be interested to hear whether anyone here has been subjected to this kind of treatment.
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My friend Rei sent me a photo of herself taking part in an academic panel on international defence at the Osaka Expo. My eye was drawn (as how could it not be?) to that fact that the panelists were sitting beside a large cut-out cartoon hedgehog - which seemed incongruous in a such a serious setting.

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Rei tells me that this is in fact a mascot used by NATO for mass communication purposes. In which case, how come I've never seen it?

On looking into the matter, however, I find that the hedgehog was indeed in use during the Cold War, as a formidable beast whose spines were, nevertheless, defensive in nature. (The other picture dates from 1959, and shows 15 hedgehogs, representing the 15 then-members, seeing off a Russian bear. I wonder which is the USA?)

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This article from the NATO website suggests that the symbol was dropped in the 1980s, but it has clearly made a comeback - at least in Japan, where no organisation is complete without its mascot character, any more than Lyra without her daemon.

Coda Read

Aug. 5th, 2025 07:16 am
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I love me a ghost story coda. Their general purpose of course is to disrupt the border between the story world and our own by suggesting, explicitly or not (not being the classier option), that we can't simply shut the book and pack our fears safely away - that some may leak out.

Often codas take the form of reversion to a frame story, in which the main narrative has been related as a diverting fiction or country tale, only to have some unexpected evidence of its truth appear once all seems safely concluded. That device has probably been overused, though.

My favourite coda will probably always be the final paragraph (or really, sentence) of M.R. James's 'Casting the Runes', which has an austere minimalism that would have made John Cage proud:

Only one detail shall be added. At Karswell's sale a set of Bewick, sold with all faults, was acquired by Harrington. The page with the woodcut of the traveller and the demon was, as he had expected, mutilated. Also, after a judicious interval, Harrington repeated to Dunning something of what he had heard his brother say in his sleep: but it was not long before Dunning stopped him.


That said, I also like the far more garrulous use of the frame story in Lafcadio Hearn's retelling of 'The Romance of the Peony Lantern', under the title 'A Passional Karma'. It ought not to work, because unlike the slightly trite device of discovering some evidence that the story was true after all, it does quite the opposite - seemingly mocking the narrator for having been drawn in by the fiction. And yet, this still manages to give a creepy effect, at least to me, for reasons I can't quite formulate. Perhaps you can?

Anyway, I recommend the story, coda and all.
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Reverse reasoning, for want of a better name, is something I've always found charming. What do I mean by 'reverse reasoning'? I'll give you an example from British Children's Literature in Japanese Culture. In that book, I recount the life of Momoko Ishii, the great translator, editor, publisher, critic, librarian, novelist and general powerhouse of Japanese children's publishing in the twentieth century. As a young graduate in English literature she was working for the writer and publisher Kan Kikuchi when the prime minister, Tsuyoshi Inukai, was assassinated - an event that marked the country's descent into military government. Kikuchi was acquainted with Inukai's son, and recommended Ishii as someone who could organise the deceased prime minister's personal library. In this way she became friendly with the Inukai family, and happened to be in the house one Christmas Eve, where she was presented by Inukai Jr.'s two children with a copy of The House at Pooh Corner, which they had been given by a friend recently returned from England but were of course unable to read. Ishii sat with them, translating as she went, and was overwhelmed by the experience to the extent that she devoted the rest of her life to children's literature. (This is the short version, of course.)

Anyway, later in the book, I write:

It is a sobering reflection that, if Tsuyoshi Inukai had not been assassinated, Momoko Ishii would not have become close to Ken Inukai’s family, would not have found the copy of The House at Pooh Corner under the Christmas tree and would quite possibly never have pursued a career in children’s books. To suggest that the world of Japanese children’s literature therefore owes Inukai’s assassins a debt would be perverse, but it is a striking example of the arbitrary consequences of human actions, especially when large enterprises depend disproportionately on the actions of a few individuals.


The 'perverse' conclusion I mention is what I would call 'reverse reasoning' (but surely there's a better name?). Another example: I used to tease my former lodger, Rei, by saying that she was only able to come to Bristol because Tokugawa Ieyasu won the battle of Sekigahara. The reasoning was that: Tokugawa was thus able to establish his capital at Edo, which created a demand for soy sauce, which the Kikkoman company (upriver at Noda) was able to supply, becoming rich in the process, and in due course the Kikkoman-dominated Noda chamber of commerce was able to fund the scholarship which paid for Rei's travel.

This way of reasoning, or rather the evident ropiness of it, is what makes some early detective stories creak a bit. (Yes, I'm thinking of the opening conversation in 'The Murders in the Rue Morgue', and if you didn't guess that you are no Dupin.)

Anyway, I was delighted to find recently that there's a Japanese expression that plays with the same phenomenon: "When the wind blows, the barrel makers prosper." Here, the sequence goes as follows:

The wind blows dust into the air.
The dust increases cases of blindness.
The increased numbers of blind people mean that there are more shamisen players (an instrument traditionally played by the blind).
The increased demand for shamisens (traditionally covered in cat skin) reduces the number of cats.
The lack of cats means that the number of rats increases.
The extra rats, lacking food, are reduced to chewing barrels.
This makes extra work for barrel makers, boosting their profits.

The real problem with this way of thinking is that it fails to recognise the assymetry between cause and effect. Look back down the garden of forking paths and you see the one route you took. From the other end, you are dazzled by infinite possibilities. This is why it's easier to analyse a completed chess game than it is to write a chess program. The branching factor is too high - and in life it's higher still.

Still, the thought of being able to analyse things forwards in the way we habitually analyse them backwards is certainly appealing. Presumably there is a 'proper' name for it, better than 'reverse reasoning' - but what might it be?
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Would you like to see some rather dusty holiday snaps? These (and more like them) would have been posted in May, but for reasons discussed in my previous entry I had neither the heart nor the mental energy to do so. Still, there are some good memories here, and I can take you through the highlights of our stay in picture-book form.

Last year, it being C&W's first trip to Japan, we did the classic Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka-Tokyo route - with just one side quest to Matsuyama in Shikoku. This time we decided to travel north, on the Tohoku shinkansen (the one used in the book, though not the film, of Bullet Train) - as far as its terminus at Hakodate in southern Hokkaido. Along the way, we stopped at Aizuwakamatsu, Sendai (with side trips to Matsushima and Yamadera) and Hachinohe. Afterwards I returned to Tokyo to see various friends and to visit an exhibition that was being held at Kanagawa University in Yokohama, based on my book, while C&W spent a few nights a deux in charming Nikko. Our final few days included a trip to Yokohama's famous Cup Noodle Museum with Rei, Tani and Yuko, and an early-monring session watching sumo practice at a heya in Tokyo.

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This temple building (dedicated to Kannon-sama) in Aizuwakamatsu has an internal double-helix structure - you ascend on one staircase and descend by the other.

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The view of Matsushima Bay that made Basho go wobbly at the knees, and who can blame him?

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Channelling Caspar David Friedrich at Yamadera - an incredibly beautiful place, and far from crowded, at least on the day we were there.

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Torii and pagoda at Nikko

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"At a Nikko konbini all covered in vines, there were two rows of shoppers in two straight lines..."

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An unexpected highlight was this musical version of Tom's Midnight Garden, which I very much enjoyed. Thanks to my friend Miho, I was able to enjoy a drink with the cast and crew afterwards.

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Our cup noodle creations.

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A post-keiko photo op at the sumo stable.

Gosh, it seems quite a long time ago now, but the wanderlust is already stirring and I'm beginning to ponder my next trip - perhaps to Nagasaki? I've not been to Kyushu since 2019.
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Another long truancy from LJ. (Thank you for the nudge.) There are reasons.

I'd meant, according to custom, to post pictures from Japan, where I went over Easter with daughter and daughter's boyfriend, a repeat of last year's excellent "once in a liftetime" trip. However, as I connected to WiFi at arrivals in Haneda it was to find that, while I was in midair, the Supreme Court had decided that I was no longer a woman — although, only when I was in the UK, and only for the purpose of the Equality Act 2010. I remained a woman for the purpose of case law and other legislation. This ruling was welcomed on all sides as bringing "much needed clarity", and was followed by a bunch of organisations and institutions, who had clearly been eager for the opportunity, to show just how creative they could be in finding ways to stigmatize, mock, humiliate and endanger trans people.

We had a great time in Japan, and I'd love to say that brooding on all this didn't cast the slightest shadow on the experience of exploring Tohoku. It did, though.

I think that our three days in Sendai, which included day trips to Matsushima Bay (praised by Bashō in perhaps the laziest haiku ever written, but I can't blame him) and the mountain temple of Yamadera (which, being Englished, means 'mountain temple') were particular highlights for me. I'll put some pictures in a future post.
But throughout, I was dreading the Ovidian metamorphosis that would apparently overtake me on touching down at Gatwick. Tiresias is said to have changed sex after accidentally encountering two snakes copulating. In my case the snakes were (metaphorically, I add, in case any lawyers are reading) J.K. Rowling and Kishwer Falkner, one of whom funded the SC case while the other took the decision and origamied its ramifications into something several times their original size.

Anyway, I've no wish to go over that here, either. I did discuss some aspects of the decision and its fallout over on Medium — and you're very welcome to read it.

Overall, this has not been a great year so far. In January my job (along with that of my colleagues in other Humanities departments) was placed under threat, largely because STEM subjects have failed to recruit enough of those lucrative foreign postgrads on which the UK higher education sector depends — a fall-off prompted in turn by the Government's Reform-appeasing decision to place onerous restrictions on such students' visas. The redundancy threat was later withdrawn, but there's a distinct 'never glad confident morning again' mood at my institution, as at others. It's hard to feel valued in such circumstances.

Then, my brother had a major stroke, which has left him (for the moment at least) in a rehab facility, and almost immediatley afterwards my cat died (admittedly she was 18, but still). The roof and top floor ceilings of my house and those of my neighbours need to be entirely replaced, which will be extremely disruptive and necessitate about 5 months of all-over scaffolding, starting this Monday. All of this was happening against the daily background of slaughter in Gaza and elsewhere, a laughably principle-free government at home and a deranged one in the States. So, one way and another I've had better years.

There's plenty of good stuff too, though — and next time I'll be more cheerful!
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There can be few of us who haven't been struck at one time or another by how much the titles of Thomas Hardy's novels sound like the names of sex aids from a Victorian dildo catalogue. Here, at last, I have attempted to do justice to this conceit.

1 The Well-beloved
2 The Trumpet Major
3 The Woodlanders
4 The Hand of Ethelberta
5 The Mayor of Casterbridge
6 Jude the Obscure
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My Fellow Dreamwidthers,

For too long now, Amazon (and no doubt the rest of Brazil) has enjoyed a huge trade imbalance with my household.

I have bought books, small electrical items, those little wotchermacallits-that-my-local-shop-doesn't-stock, and more, from them. They, meanwhile, have bought precisely NOTHING from me.

I call it an imbalance - but it's better seen as the result of trade barriers imposed by Amazon. For example, while Amazon has a button that allows me to BUY goods, there is no button that allows me to SELL goods to them! This, despite the fact that I have a spare bedroom full of old toys, clothes, chipped mugs and so on that I'd be glad to sell! If that's not an unfair trading practice, what is?

As a result, I am here to announce that from today I will be imposing a 100% TARIFF on all goods bought from Amazon. Admittedly this will make their goods twice as expensive, but that expense will be paid for by the money I receive in tariffs, making Amazon goods effectively FREE.

God bless Amazonia.
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It's been almost two months since my last post. In some ways that's not so very long - but still long enough for the USA to turn from a functioning democracy into a Fascist-adjacent authoritarian state.

These lines have been going through my head on repeat since January:

Though justice against fate complain,
And plead the ancient rights in vain;
But those do hold or break
As men are strong or weak.

Marvell knew what he was talking about. Checks and balances can be toppled if there's no one to provide a counterweight. If a judge countermands an executive order in middle of the forest, but no one acts as if they heard it, did it really happen?

I do feel that this will be a temporary phenomenon, because Trump, Musk and Co. will fall on the sword of their own hubris and incompetence, and because forces of resistance will inevitably grow, if far too slowly. At the current rate of change, though, I think that those counselling "hanging on till the midterms" sound awfully naive. What midterms? We can't hold midterms in a National Emergency! (There is no National Emergency, you may object - but then, there is no war with Venezuala, and Trump still successfully invoked the Alien Enemies Act.) Laws, customs and institutions don't exist except in so far as people agree to act as if they do; to behave as if they had real force in their own right is magical thinking. Or, in the language of J.L. Austin, it's to ignore the contexts that give statements their performative power, or rob them of it.

A well known example is the sentence, "The constitution is suspended", the performative power of which is very different depending on whether it appears in a government proclamation or merely as the title of a blog post. For the moment it's the latter. In another two months, who knows?
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Well, it's been a mixed week. Let's start with the bad, then the good, then the bad again — to make whatever's the opposite of a shit sandwich.

On Tuesday, my university announced that, largely in response to falling international applications to STEM subjects, it was going to make a bonfire of the Humanities. (No, it doesn't make sense to me, either.) Subjects for the chop include Modern Languages and Translation, Music, Ancient History, and (just to mix it up a little) Nursing. My School will continue to exist, but in a much reduced form, as the School of Global Humanities. I'm not sure how one can promote Global Humanities at the same time as erasing Modern Languages, but perhaps the idea is that it will all be done by AI? Or just by speaking English louder and slower? Who knows? About half the staff will go, and it's a very open question whether I will be among them — so, a stressful few months are in prospect, at the very least.

On the other hand, on Wednesday evening I was able to give a talk to around 100 people who had come to the Daiwa Foundation in London for the paperback book launch of British Children's Literature in Japanese Culture. It went really well (you can watch the talk here if so inclined), and I sold all but one of the 25 books I'd brought along for the event. It confirmed me in the belief that there's a real appetite for this subject. Doing it with the prospect of redundancy hanging over my head was really weird — but we live in a weird age.

The other background noise was that of transphobic laws being passed in the US, loudly cheered on of course by likeminded people in the UK, who can't wait to do something similar here. I was disappointed to hear Jon Stewart say that we should keep our powder dry on calling the Trump administration fascistic, because although it may well be headed that way it's not there yet. Tell that to the trans people who've just had their passports confiscated, or the random brown-coloured people being detained by ICE. The thing about fascist states is, if you're not one of the main target groups and you keep your head down, you can live a pretty normal life for quite a long time, until you can't. And then it's too late to speak.
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I'm gradually sliding out of Facebook, ever since Mark Zuckerberg decided it would help his bottom line to make it open season on people like me. But a small haven has always been the Moss Appreciation Society, where I occasionally look at and even more occasionally upload pictures of that most calming plant - such as the one below, which I took in Oldbury Court Estate the other day while walking with Rei and Tani, who were in town for a visit.

20250111_142136

The Moss Appreciation Society has never had much controversy. The nearest it came to fisticuffs was in the recurrent battle about whether or not to allow pictures of lichens. So, I was surprised on going there yesterday to find that it had become a hotbed of exhortations to follow Jesus, anti-vax nonsense and LGBTQ hatred.

One of the few remaining moss-orientated members told me that the admin had died (whether metaphorically or not I'm unclear) and the place had been invaded by bots, which is certainly how it looked. Seeing a dead Facebook group overtaken in this way was, oddly, not unlike watching the creep of moss over a rotting stump, and had its own fascination. But apparently alternative Moss Appreciation Societies had fruited elsewhere! There was Moss Appreciation Society 2.0, The Real Moss Appreciation Society, The Moss Appreciation Society with a little picture of a mushroom next to the name, etc. At least one of these is genuinely devoted to the appreciation of moss, but I don't have the heart to throw myself into any of them right now. The whole thing seems too much like a microcosm of what's recently happened to social media, and indeed society, as a whole.

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