steepholm: (Default)
Well, it's been a mixed week. Let's start with the bad, then the good, then the bad again — to make whatever's the opposite of a shit sandwich.

On Tuesday, my university announced that, largely in response to falling international applications to STEM subjects, it was going to make a bonfire of the Humanities. (No, it doesn't make sense to me, either.) Subjects for the chop include Modern Languages and Translation, Music, Ancient History, and (just to mix it up a little) Nursing. My School will continue to exist, but in a much reduced form, as the School of Global Humanities. I'm not sure how one can promote Global Humanities at the same time as erasing Modern Languages, but perhaps the idea is that it will all be done by AI? Or just by speaking English louder and slower? Who knows? About half the staff will go, and it's a very open question whether I will be among them — so, a stressful few months are in prospect, at the very least.

On the other hand, on Wednesday evening I was able to give a talk to around 100 people who had come to the Daiwa Foundation in London for the paperback book launch of British Children's Literature in Japanese Culture. It went really well (you can watch the talk here if so inclined), and I sold all but one of the 25 books I'd brought along for the event. It confirmed me in the belief that there's a real appetite for this subject. Doing it with the prospect of redundancy hanging over my head was really weird — but we live in a weird age.

The other background noise was that of transphobic laws being passed in the US, loudly cheered on of course by likeminded people in the UK, who can't wait to do something similar here. I was disappointed to hear Jon Stewart say that we should keep our powder dry on calling the Trump administration fascistic, because although it may well be headed that way it's not there yet. Tell that to the trans people who've just had their passports confiscated, or the random brown-coloured people being detained by ICE. The thing about fascist states is, if you're not one of the main target groups and you keep your head down, you can live a pretty normal life for quite a long time, until you can't. And then it's too late to speak.
steepholm: (Default)
I'm currently in Antwerp - the first time I've set foot on the continent since 2019, and that was only to change planes. I'm in a hotel near city's impressive basilica of a railway station, with an anchovy-laden pizza decocting quietly in my stomach. It's only a brief visit, though, to give a lecture; tomorrow, back to Birmingham and thence Bristol.

It's really embarrassing a) how little I find I'm able to use French (I never had Flemish) and b) how little it matters, everyone else being fluent in English. I seem to have the kind of brain that can only hold one foreign language at a time, and of course that's currently Japanese. I thought I was doing okay when I arrived at the hotel and introduced myself as Catherine Butler in a half-decent accent, but then heard myself add involuntarily, "desu" - a real confidence knocker.

Actually, most of the French I need is hidden somewhere in my head, but to get at it I need to heave the Japanese out of the way, and more often than not a residual layer of German too - and by then the moment's passed. A few seconds too late, I remember what it was I wanted to say, but now it's no more than a case of l'esprit d'escalier.

The irony isn't lost on me.
steepholm: (Default)
Last weekend I was in Glasgow, co-hosting the 50th Anniversary Conference on Watership Down with Dimitra Fimi. I was too busy to take photographs, so you'll have to take it from me that the event did indeed take place, and not only that but was a success. Richard Adams's daughter gave one of the keynotes (she looks exactly like him!), but we had many other contributions too, from diverse disciplines: the inventor of the "Bunnies and Burrows" tabletop game, for example; a couple a French scholars talking about the French translation; linguists and Tolkienists on the Lapine language; classicists on the echoes of the Aeneid; the twin sons of the one of the key animators on the 1978 film, the novelist SF Said on Adams as a personal writing inspiration, and so on. (I talked about theory of mind in animal stories.) This the kind of mix I really appreciate.

Any other big WD fans here? I've been really surprised at how little academic work's been done on it, considering how many ways it seems to invite it.

In other news, I took delivery of a couple more reprints of books by Weeden Butler the elder. I thought I might as well order them cheap, since I'm unlikely to be able to get first editions. One is called Indian Vocabulary, and is essentially an early version of Hobson-Jobson, but published about a century earlier, in 1788.

One interesting thing is that Weeden deliberately attempted to write the words phonetically, so as to aid his English readers' pronunciation of Indian words, with the consequence that 'shah,' for instance, becomes 'shaw.' One of the earliest entries is for Abdallah Shaw - which gives a decidedly odd effect.

We also get little insights that fall outside strict word definition, as with 'Abrooa'n', 'A sort of fine muslin, manufactured solely for the king's seraglio; a piece of which, costing four hundred rupees, or £50 sterling, is said to have weighed only five Sicca rupees, and, if spread upon wet grass, to have been scarcely visible.' Steady, Weeden.

Rather cannily, Weeden promoted this book as being of topical interest, because it was published while the trial of Warren Hastings was ongoing - and he even throws in, by way of a makeweight, a detailed description of the process and rules of impeachment. Bonus!

The other book is merely a sermon, more interesting for the occasion of its delivery than for its content, given as it was before the newly formed 'Armed Association of the Parish of St Luke, Chelsea... on Sunday, 8th July, 1798.' The 'Armed Association' was basically a kind of anti-Napoleonic Home Guard, although Weeden is as concerned about sedition at home as threats directly from abroad.

I wonder what would happen if they tried to make the inhabitants of Cheyne Row into an armed militia today?
steepholm: (Default)
I gave a lecture in Tokyo this morning - or this afternoon, Japan time, since it was of course via Zoom and I still in Bristol. It was nice to see some familiar faces from the Japan children's literature side, and the lecture went well, but... "I awoke in California, many miles from Spancil Hill."

I couldn't settle to my normal work afterwards, and having had a full weekend of writing decided to take a break in Lacock. After all, I have been a member of the National Trust for a full year now, and only used my magic card once. I also suspected (correctly) that I might have the cloisters at Lacock Abbey to myself - or rather, have to share them with no one but the ghosts of Harry, Ron and Hermione.

DSC06208DSC06200

I'm not going to put lots of pictures of Lacock here, because I'm sure I've done it in the past, but this time I took in perhaps the oldest bus shelter in the country, which apparently doubles as the town jail:

20211101_140243

In my book Death of a Ghost (2006 - and still reading pretty well!) there's a minor character, a rich businessman whose sober appearance and lifestyle is leavened only by a love of extravagant topiary. I think he may have moved to Lacock.

20211101_13522620211101_134854 (2)

I wonder what the villagers make of this rather voluptuous hedge? No one has attacked it yet, at least, though I feel that a Midsomer Murders plot can't be far behind.

I bought some bramble jam and glass earrings, made a deep spiritual connection with this meditative sheep, and returned refreshed. Now, on with my potted account of children's literature in Meiji Japan!

20211101_132218 (2)

How was your Monday?
steepholm: (Default)
I had a little adventure from Wednesday to Thursday, travelling into the debatable Welsh marches, and the even more debatable borderlands of Herefordshire and Shropshire, to check out the setting of the 2017 anime, Mary and the Witch's Flower. The film was based on Mary Stewart's The Little Broomstick (1971) - which I saw in Kichijouji shortly after its release. I'd suspected from the beginning that it was based on a real place, but had been unable to track it down until recently, when a colleague who happens to be a Shropshire lad gave me a clue.

So, off I went to spend the night in the same house where Mary was staying in the film - which in real life is a B&B and country farmhouse. Back in 2015 the director and crew stayed there too, taking lots of pictures of the owner's furniture and fittings, many of which reappeared in cartoon form in the film. I showed the owner the DVD, and she was surprised to see the coffee mug from which she was drinking appear on the screen in front of her, among many other things.

Normally at this point I'd entertain you (or at least myself) with lots of side-by-side pictures of real-vs-anime versions of various views, but since most are interiors of someone else's home I'm a bit shy about doing that today. For what it's worth though, here is the wood where the witch's flower is found in the film, and alongside it Coxall Knoll, which the filmmakers used as a model. You'll have to take my word for it.

crash landingDSC06136
steepholm: (Default)
Well, I've finally made landfall. Yesterday my final class was taught, and (since I will be on research leave in the autumn semester) I will not have to teach another until 2022. Of course, there's a lot of marking between where I am now (still sloshing about on the foreshore with saltwater in my sea boots) and the chalky uplands where I can actually do research, and I will of course continue to edit Children's Literature in Education and supervise sundry PhD students throughout; but still, a deep sense of peace has descended. Time to settle down and watch season 2 of the karmic Thai school drama, Girl From Nowhere, I think. (I asked on FB in vain, and I ask again here: does anyone other than me watch this show? As I've mentioned before, it's really not like anything else I've seen. I'd love to hear someone else's opinion.)

Meanwhile, I made my first ever visit to the Star and Garter, once the domain of Dutty Ken, St Paul's legend, and still with a tempting line in curried goat. This was actually my first pint of draught beer in over a year.

DSC06005

I got my second jab earlier in the week, with none of the unpleasant effects of the first, beyond a certain tiredness. Now I just have to hope that Japan gets its vaccine act together quickly enough for me to be able to take up the visiting scholarship at Tokyo Joshidai in September. I'd say the chances are 50:50 or rather less at present.

In politics, Keir Starmer's "Like the Tories But Less So" slogan doesn't seem to have been quite as inspiring as he hoped - and I gather he wants to change it to "Even More Like the Tories But Less So." Good luck with that.

Drive-by post achievement unlocked. Now, back to marking dissertations.
steepholm: (Default)
Well, I moved house almost two week ago. I'm still living in a world of boxes, of course, partly because unpacking them is a lot of work, partly because I'm still in two minds about where to put their contents (mostly books). The day of the move coincided with the beginning of the semester, always a busy time, but especially in a year when I'm in charge of the largest first-year module and many students are going in and out of self-isolation because of you-know-what, necessitating moves from classroom to online teaching and back.

The good news is that I'm doing all this from home, being one of those spared classroom duties, in part on account of my advanced age. Not that I think of myself that way, but I suppose I may as well take the pros with the cons of the world slowly coming to such a view about me. The other day I was on the phone to "3" about getting 4G broadband, and mentioned that this had been my daughter's idea, the cable broadband at this address being poor. The person at the other end responded: "Perhaps I could speak to your daughter?"

My daughter thought this hilarious, of course, as indeed it was; but still, a foretaste of things to come...

I really like the new house, by the way! Photos will follow in due course, when it's a bit less all over the place.

Meanwhile, as a sorry-present to make up for a fortnight's absence, here's a very short article on that villain Hamlet, which I recently wrote for The Conversation.
steepholm: (Default)
I've exchanged contracts on a new house, and will (COVID-19 willing) be moving in on Monday! This is very pleasing after such a long delay - my offer was first accepted all the way back in January - but naturally it happens to fall on the first day of the new semester, so these are proving to be rather busy days...

All the same, it's hard not to get a little distracted by some of the things I keep discovering as I pack. Like this, for example - perhaps my grandfather's first ever publication. Aged 16, in 1901, he took to the letters pages of The Vegetarian to engage in a protracted correspondence about the relationship of vegetarianism and Christianity, of which this is the opening salvo:

MCB letter to The Vegetarian

But I must get back to my packing!

(If you would like my new address, by the way, feel free to message me.)
steepholm: (Default)
I've not posted lately, largely from lack of matter, or rather of motivation (coruscating squibs about the political situation project a continual firework display against my cerebral cortex, but I mostly don't share them because to point out the criminality of people committing crimes in plain view seems otiose), but also because my life in the last couple of weeks has been in a weird suspension.

The people I'm meant to be buying a house from told me to expect to move on 28th August, and I accordingly started turning my own house upside down in readiness, while busily preparing online lectures and seminar materials against the imminent arrival of students eager to learn. However, for various non-too-clear reasons the move got delayed, and I now don't expect it to happen for another month, i.e. well into the new semester. Having a few days without internet will be an interesting experience in Week 1, as I prepare to lead the core first-year module by the medium of online seminar.

Meanwhile, I just heard Louis Bird on the radio, talking about how he was commuting from Bristol to Cardiff to work on some "terrible TV show" and felt that his life was in a rut and that he simply had to follow in his father's footsteps and become an ocean rower. I can't say that the same commute has had that effect on me so far; on the other hand, at this point I haven't been to Cardiff for six months! Perhaps the ocean-rowing bug will bite only once there's a vaccine?

Fun fact: the Japanese for vaccine is "wakuchin" - pronounced something like "whack chin." It's easy to remember - just picture someone receiving an upper cut.
steepholm: (Default)
As I mentioned briefly at the time, I was in Oxford at the end of February, primarily to see a student I'm externally supervising at Oxford Brookes, but also to hear Maria Cecire give a talk at the other University. In between that and tea at St John's I also gave an interview on fantasy literature for the University of Oxford's "Great Writers" podcast series, which has now spawned - nay, uploaded - a Fantasy Literature section.

There's some interesting stuff, but if you'd rather listen to me talk about fantasy, you can do so here.
steepholm: (Default)
Last year, in an appropriately thrifty way, I bought two haggis for the price of one, to celebrate my birthday (also Burns's) that year and this. Yesterday I discovered, on taking it out to defrost, that haggises can only be safely frozen for one month. What a waste!

As it happens, I bought my daughter and her boyfriend entry to a Burns Night supper event last night, and would have joined them had I not had to spend the night in Glasgow for a PhD viva. In Glasgow, of course, no haggis was to be had - at least that I could find - so I ended up eating pizza. No lambs or cows died to make my mess, although I may have inconvenienced a goat. The haggis proper will have to wait for Burns Night proper - which this year happens also to be the start of the Chinese New Year. I'm still pondering the appropriate accompaniment to complement the tatties.
steepholm: (Default)
There's a nice John Finnemore sketch in which Pachelbel gets annoyed by people only ever wanting to hear his Canon and ignoring his more ambitious work. This is of course a common phenomenon. My brother, serious contemporary composer, is dogged by his setting of Roald Dahl's Dirty Beasts poems (initially narrated by the author himself), which has been performed and recorded far more than his other pieces. Richmal Crompton came to resent William Brown, Conan Doyle couldn't shake off Sherlock Holmes, and so on. Rather than be grateful for having had one more hit than most people, it's easy to focus on the fact that you are going to be remembered for something you don't consider your best work.

My father greatly took to a picture I drew at primary school, a portrait in pastels of six duckling chicks which had recently taking to wandering up our lawn. He framed it and hung it on the wall, perhaps as an earnest of things to come. Later, when I was a published novelist, he would still hark back to that picture in a way that clearly implied my creative output had been going downhill ever since.

DSC03229
You are Not to Agree with Him

So anyway, I was looking at my Academia.edu page just now, and had a similar sensation. Not everything I've put up there is for download, but of those that are the top 3 are an eclectic mix, and don't necessarily represent anything like what I'd have predicted or think of as my best:

1: 'Tolkien and Worldbuilding' - 3,920 views.

This 2013 casebook essay is far and away my most read piece. I think it's a pretty solid piece of work, but why so much more successful than the rest? I suppose it got on some reading lists.

2. ‘“You are feeling very sleepy…”: hypnosis, enchantment and mind-control in children’s fiction’ 1,435 views.

This is a surprise entry - from an article published in 2005 (and written three years earlier). It doesn't connect to any of my main research themes, but it's an original piece. I once saw it recommended on a page written by a hypnotist, which I found flattering - perhaps it's mostly hypnotists who download it?

3. ‘Experimental Girls: Feminist and Transgender Discourses in Bill’s New Frock and Marvin Redpost: Is He a Girl?’ - 530 views

This 2009 article is to date my only publication on gender stuff, and has done pretty well in download terms - I assume for the theme rather than because the world is awash with Fine or Sachar researchers.

Contrarwise, the lowest scoring piece is the only one that ever actually won an award: ‘Alan Garner’s Red Shift and the Shifting Ballad of “Tam Lin”’ was ChLA Honor Article in 2002, and is about one of the authors on whom my critical reputation rests. It has 47 views.

Go figure.
steepholm: (Default)
Going through my mother's photographs, etc., has revealed my first ever rejection letter!

DSC03153

I wasn't quite 6 at the time, so don't take it too personally. It still pays to know someone in the biz.

In more contemporary news, I'm happy to say that my first successful Cardiff PhD student, aka Intertext, successfully passed her viva this week - having delivered her thesis (on intertextuality in Diana Wynne Jones) two years early.
steepholm: (Default)
You know how you keep putting something off because you're too busy to do it justice right now, but putting it off makes it even more daunting, because the amount that needs to be done just keeps getting bigger, etc?

I've been a bit that way for the last couple of weeks re. blogging. I've had a lot on, in fact, and done quite a few things I would like to have blogged about, but I was too busy doing them, and so the recordkeeping rather went by the wayside.

However, I'm declaring an amnesty. Rather than try to describe the last few weeks in one go I'll just jot down the headlines here, and hope to fill in some of the blanks over future entries, which will I trust from today be back to their former desultory frequency.

First, there was the Diana Wynne Jones conference in Bristol, which I organised with my friend Farah M, which involved just shy of 100 people coming to the Watershed to talk about DWJ. It was a great success, I think it's fair to say, though the weather was shit - but that was worse news for the balloon fiesta than for us...

The next day it was a night at my brother's in Brighton, then off via Gatwick to Stockholm for IRSCL - my first visit to the city. (I liked it a lot, though it was a tad too hipster for me.) The ABBA museum with Clémentine was a special highlight, along with the visit to the Golden Hall in the City Hall, which is apparently where they all dish out those glittering prizes we've heard so much about.

I was back in my bed by 4am on Monday morning, then off to work by 10 - where I did some needful work-y things, and since then I've been trying to catch up on all the other work stuff: articles and grant applications and the like. Oh, and Eriko came over for the night on Thursday, which was fun.

There you have a very bare-bones account! I'll try to fill in some of the detail later, but meanwhile, have some pictures of Stockholm...

DSC03031DSC03037DSC03062image3
steepholm: (Default)
I've been in Valencia for a few days attending a conference, most of which was in Spanish and thus incomprehensible to me, but everyone was extremely friendly and welcoming, and somehow that didn't matter too much. Why was I there at all, you ask, since I couldn't understand the proceedings? Why, because I had been invited. My keynote went well, thank you very much.

While in Valencia I read Isabella Bird's book about travelling in Japan in the 1870s, and found it very interesting, as an outsider's account of a country in transition from Edo culture to Westernisation. It's full of quotable titbits, but I shall refrain, at least for now. One interesting factoid, though: did you know that the only currency accepted in Japan apart from the yen at that time was the Mexican dollar?

Bird - who already had experience of adventuring in Hawaii and the Rockies before this - was in her mid-forties when she decided to travel the length of Japan (well, from Tokyo to Hokkaido), and she certainly knew her own mind. She isn't afraid of criticising the country: the flea-infested tatami, the food, the abominable roads, etc. On the other hand, this lends her compliments more force, so that when she praises the kindness and courtesy of the Japanese, their immaculate roads and fields, the beauty of the landscape, and so on, we can be confident she means it. Her relationship with her young interpreter, Ito, is also fascinating, if glimpsed only briefly in odd exchanges.

Of course, it turns out that the book has been made into a manga - [不思議の国のバード] (Bird in Wonderland). The Japanese like to look at people looking at them, and of course I like looking at the Japanese doing that, too, especially when refracted through a British children's classic. The allusion to Alice (recalling to me D. C. Angus's The Eastern Wonderland: or Pictures of Japanese Life, which was published at almost the same time as Bird's book, in the early 1880s), only adds to the allure.

Bird in the manga is much younger looking than the real woman, but otherwise it's a fairly faithful adaptation, from what I've seen, but that's only on the basis of a few pages.

How did they handle the fact that Bird, who did not speak Japanese, must speak Japanese in the manga to be understood by its readers? Why, like this:

bird japanese

This is actually quite an accurate representation of my arrival in Valencia.
steepholm: (Default)
One more sleep till the Christmas break, and I'm hoping not to wake up to a pile of marking at the end of my bed...

Yesterday was my last time paying a toll on the Second Severn Crossing, now officially renamed "The Prince of Wales Bridge" by politically correct history-rewriters (or doesn't that argument count when it's done by royalists?). The cost of the bridge was paid off a year ago, but the Treasury has been collecting the the Going-to-Wales tax, disguised as a toll, since then. As I write this the toll booths are being broken up for firewood, and their surly inhabitants pushed out into the night to wander the Severn's treacherous foreshore under the crystalline sky - just in time for Christmas. I wanted to ask about that as I paid over my last £5.60, indeed, but there was a queue behind me.

I still have some things on my plate - work from PhD students, various articles and books to review, Children's Literature in Education business and so on, but basically I have until Christmas to do some research of my own - something to which I've been more or less a stranger since September. In particular, the hefty pile of material from my Japanese voyage has yet to receive its final, triumphant transfiguration into scholarship, and looks more like an early draft of The Key to All Mythologies.

It's been a particularly busy term, not least because I packed in a lot of external examining (MA programmes in Wolverhampton and Roehampton, PhDs in Valencia and Dublin), as well as various extras on university home turf. I can blame no one but myself for all this, and in fact the work was generally interesting, but I do feel more than usually exhausted at this point, from the constant travel as much as anything. Hence my recent tendency to fall asleep at the wheel of this blog.

That's all going to change now, though! Look forward to vexatiously frequent entries from now on!
steepholm: (Default)
Can it really be only a week since my colonoscopy?

It's hard to believe, but it's been a pretty busy, tail-chasing sort of week, with far too much travel - and the next ten days look like being a similar story. Without much embellishment, and really for my own later reference, I'll just record that I went to Birmingham last Saturday, to spend the day with Clémentine, before accompanying her to see Prokofiev's War and Peace at the Hippodrome. Here we are sharing some pork and a cup of Glühwein at the unseasonably early Christmas market.

46503879_200809394155529_521635769647890432_n

It was lovely to see her, and I even enjoyed the opera (I find Prokofiev simpatico and always have), but it's not an art form I've ever quite been able to get my head round. Andrei is dying of his wounds, yet still singing at the top of his voice? I suppose I should be able to accept it as a convention, just as I do stage sets in plays. I remember Philip Sidney holding out for the unity of place in terms that seem endearingly ridiculous:

Now ye shall have three ladies walk to gather flowers, and then we must believe the stage to be a garden. By and by we hear news of shipwreck in the same place, and then we are to blame if we accept it not for a rock. Upon the back of that comes out a hideous monster with fire and smoke, and then the miserable beholders are bound to take it for a cave. While in the mean time two armies fly in, represented with four swords and bucklers, and then what hard heart will not receive it for a pitched field?


I know my doubts about opera are no better founded than Sidney's, but there you are.

On Monday I was with Dimitra Fimi, giving a talk on Ursula Le Guin at a public engagement event in Cardiff. Dimitra's teaching in Glasgow now, but still commuting from Cardiff. She was due to catch a 7am flight the morning after, which puts my own travel blues in perspective. I at least got to stay with my friend and colleague Ann, in her huge Victorian house in Newport.

dimitra and cathy at Cardiff Booktalk 19 Nov 2018

On Tuesday, I got the very sad news that Yume, my favourite restaurant, has closed suddenly, for reasons I will make it my business to discover. Nothing here long standeth in one stay, as the poet has it. Or in Japanese, perhaps, 「夢は儚い」. Ephemerality has aesthetic value in sakura, but in favourite restaurants, not so much.

Yesterday I was in London, being inducted as an External Examiner for the MA in Children's Literature there, which gave me a chance to catch up with my friends Alison and Lisa. It wasn't an onerous thing in itself, but yet another train journey, with an early start and late return. And tomorrow I drive to my mother's house, with sherry for her and box of matoke bananas for her carer (only matoke will do, but small Hampshire towns cannot supply them). In the cracks, I've been teaching a full timetable.

Come, 10-tog blanket of night, and cover me!
steepholm: (Default)
In the unlikely event that you've been asking yourself "Where's Steepholm?" over the last couple of days, the correct answer was "Valencia". I was part of a jury for a public doctoral defence - the first such procedure I've ever taken part in. (UK-style vivas are quite a different and more private thing, though not necessarily less tense.) Very interesting it was too, though since it's not my story to tell, I'll leave it at that, except to say that the defence was successful, and everybody was happy at the end of it. Unless of course the candidate had some secret enemies in the room, but if so they had the discretion to hide their chagrin.

It was a bit of a harsh trip, logistically. I had to catch a bus from Bristol to Gatwick at 2.25am on Friday, fly to Spain, and then preside over the defence in the afternoon. The following day I asked for an evening flight home so that I could take some time to look at the city, but that meant (thanks to some French air-traffic-control shenanigans) that my flight was delayed, I missed the last bus back to Bristol, and had to spend five hours in the early hours of Sunday at Gatwick, before catching the 5.40am home. It's now Sunday evening, and I've not had a lot of sleep.

Given that, here are some illustrated highlights of my trip, rather than a connected narrative. Some of the facts here come via the doctoral candidate, Catalina, who has also worked as a tour guide in Valencia, and kindly gave me and the other examiner a city tour yesterday.

DSC02207

First, paella. Almost the only thing I knew about Valencia was that it's the home of paella. In many places paella is made with seafood, but the traditional ingredients in its home town are, it turns out, chicken and rabbit, with snails and the local water rat as optional extras (mine had neither, sadly, but it was still delicious). Valencians never eat paella in the evening - it's strictly a lunch dish.

That was lunch yesterday: Friday evening was a rather opulent, multi-course affair, which was all delicious (though since I was among strangers I resisted the urge to photograph it). I think the strangest single dish contained the following elements, all of which had equal billing: pork snout, salmon roe, artichokes and parmesan cheese. It tasted nice (especially the artichokes), but in what fevered pipe dream did anyone come up with that combination?

Valencia is a Spanish city built in (or around) a Moorish city, built on a Visigothic city, built on a Roman city. I love places like that, and have done ever since I lived in York, which is similarly palimpsestuous. Here, for example, is the medieval "mountain gate", outside which barbers used to have their stalls, ready to shave any shaggy mountaineer coming to the big city for trade or talk:

DSC02155

Impressive, isn't it? But just a few yards inside, built into existing houses and shops, much of the Moorish city wall still remains. The Valencians are a practical people. Here are a couple of Moorish towers, about a thousand years old apiece, just being parts of people's houses, down back streets and beside little car parks:

DSC02159DSC02160

The Moors themselves were far from averse to a bit of bricolage. Witness this walled-in arch, featuring bits of saints from a Visigothic church:

DSC02189

In the more on-show parts of the city, there's a good deal of Catholic bling, especially here in the church of St Nicolas:

DSC02168

Even St Raphael seems to be bragging about how much bigger his fish was:

DSC02170

More impressive to me (of the austere tastes) is this market hall, once home to traders in the silk that was for centuries Valencia's main commodity (before competition and disease in the mulberry trees made them turn instead to oranges). Each skeined pillar twists toward the heavens:

DSC02175

But besides the old Valencia, there's an ultra-modern Valencia, built by modern architects and sculptors. Here is a scene from circa 2100, near my hotel:

DSC02220 crop

There's some controversy in the city as to whether such expensive projects should be indulged in, when the old town needs so much support, and the country's on its uppers. As to that, I stay loftily neutral; but I'll be going back next year, Brexit sakoku notwithstanding, to look round Valencia again!
steepholm: (Default)
"Of course, now I want to pop over to Cirencester (it’s only 40 minutes in the car) and pose like Alice and Shino. If only I knew someone who’d be willing to be my accomplice in so silly a mission."

I wrote those prophetic words in a post from May 2015, having only recently discovered that one of the settings of Kiniro Mosaic was Cirencester High Street. Now I understand of course that such posing trips (or seichi junrei/聖地巡礼 - a phrase translating roughly to "sacred pilgrimages") are utterly standard anime fan behaviour. Indeed, in Japan - where, naturally, most anime are set - city and prefectural governments often cooperate with anime studios to promote an anime with a local setting: the anime and the area provide each other with publicity, and everyone benefits. There's even an 88 stop anime pilgrimage route you can go on, much as pilgrims of old (and of now) take tours round various temples and shrines, getting a stamp in each on to prove they've done it. (Christian pilgrims are of course not dissimilar, with their collections of palms and scallops.) Some people pose as their anime heroes and heroines, possibly in cosplay, while others take a figurine to photograph in situ.

Well, of course I'm not the first person to notice all this, but I only recently learned about Sony's Butai Meguri app, which - using the same kind of GPS technology as Pokémon Go - allows you to photograph anime characters in the places where their stories are set. Not every anime is covered, of course, but Kiniro Mosaic is included. I learned all this from the owner of Fosse Farmhouse, whom I was helping with a Powerpoint presentation the other day. She lives in Alice's house, and kindly took a picture of me standing next to her youthful pixellated ward:

Alice and Butai Meguri at Fosse Farmhouse

Now, is this the same kind of thrill people get from going round, say, Hemingford Grey Manor and mentally inserting the characters from the Green Knowe books, as I was doing exactly a year ago?

Or is it very different?
steepholm: (Default)
If there are any Aardman fans here, feel free to flick through my Flickr account, where you will find ample photographic evidence of my trip to Cribbs Causeway (Bristol's very own out-of-town shopping centre) last week, in part to visit the Gromit Unleashed exhibition, in which all of the Wallace, Gromit and Feathers McGraw statues previously scattered throughout Bristol for the summer are reunited in one place. I'll start you off with a couple of faves, concentrating on allusions:

DSC02086
Star Trek

DSC02064
Where's Wally?

DSC02110
Monsters Inc.

DSC02097
Alice in Wonderland

But there are plenty of other themes, too. What will next year bring?

Or, if your bent runs more to haltingly delivered lectures on children's fantasy literature and the end of the Great War, with particular emphasis on memory and repression, you may like to hear the podcast of the lecture I gave last week at Exeter University as part of The Empathy Effect, a project I'm involved with. (The link's at the bottom.)

cathy pic

Profile

steepholm: (Default)
steepholm

April 2025

S M T W T F S
  12 3 45
6789101112
13141516171819
20212223242526
27282930   

Syndicate

RSS Atom

Most Popular Tags

Style Credit

Expand Cut Tags

No cut tags