Going West

Jan. 3rd, 2026 09:03 pm
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I'm now back in Bristol, and the duties of 2026 beckon, so I will wrap up my account of my Japan trip quickly. After Onomichi my next stop was Kobe, where I was meeting up with friends: Mitsuko for lunch, Yuka for dinner, and then Ayako and Irina the following day, when we visited the Kitano Ijinkan where Western merchants lived when Kobe was a treaty port after the Meiji restoration.

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We visited two of the Ijinkan houses - ones I recommended, having been to them before: the English house (with its Sherlock Holmes and Alice themes) and the Trick House over the road. It's strange to think that Conan Doyle and Alice Hargreaves (nee Liddell) lie just a few miles apart, in graves in the New Forest - and are also juxtaposed here in such a different context.

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Then it was on to Odawara, where I spent Christmas day itself in the warm bosom of the Kodaka family, where three generations had gathered to partake in the sacred Christmas ritual of eating KFC. The little boy, Rui, was particularly charming - going off into another room and calling out "Irasshaimase!" every now and then while people went in and pretended to buy things.

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One great thing about staying there is the view from my bedroom window, at least when the weather is right - as it was on Boxing Day morning.

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Finally, I went back to Tokyo and a couple of nights with Rei (my former tenant) and her husband Shuzo in their flat in Kanda. It was great to catch up with them. And my friend Hiroe took me to a puppet theatre, which has been going since the 1970s, just five minutes' walk from Shinjuku station. There we saw a rendition of an old Slovak folk tale about a mistreated girl who has uncanny encounters with the spirits of the months while out picking strawberries...

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And that was that - back to Bristol, then a quick trip to Brighton to see my brother and ring in the New Year, and now I'm in my own study again for the foreseeable.

In spare moments during this trip I was a) reading the Kalevala with profit and pleasure and b) copying out 200-year-old letters, or rather scans of them. Much more on that in entries yet to come, but I've been making some interesting discoveries of the family history variety.
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This is my second and last day in Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture. I'm writing about it now even though my last entry was so recent, because I don't know when I last visited a town I liked so well. (Sorry if a bit of Regency diction creeps in from time to time - I'm also transcribing some letters from that period in my spare moments, a subject for a later occasion.)

Onomichi (尾道 = "tail road") is not devoid of tourists, but most of the Western ones pass straight through. They get out at the station and immediately transfer to the little ferry that takes them over to the island of Mukaishima (a five-minute hop), and thence to the Shimanami Kaido cycle route across the Seto Inland Sea, a justly celebrated journey (though the only time I did it was on a rainy day and in a bus). I don't think many explore the town, which remains a bit of a hidden gem (or 穴場 - "hole place", in Japanese, as Mami informed me the other day). They should though, because it's really wonderful, at least if you share my tastes. Allow me to expatiate upon its charms under three broad heads.

First, physical geography. Onomichi is a town with a thin strip of flat land along the coast, where most of the shops are, then behind that a steeply rising hinterland. In this it resembles (on a much smaller scale) Kobe, where I'm going tomorrow, but the effect is more like that of a West country town - I was reminded oddly of Dartmouth. Mukaishima, though actually an island, feels like the far side of a river channel with a ferry connecting the two banks. Meanwhile, the narrow lanes and alleys above the town have more of a Cornish feel, with steps faced with granite in a more St Ives-ey manner. I got to know those steep lanes very well, because my hotel was at the very top of them, and it was not an easy climb on any of the three occasions I made it. (Luckily I'd forwarded my suitcase using the takkyubin, or it would have been impossible.) On the other hand, the view from my room is pretty damned good.

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Yep, that's my hotel right at the top.

When I arrived yesterday I was told that, because it was the winter solstice, the public bath would have yuzu floating in it - something I've long wanted to experience, though I didn't have the body confidence to do so, sadly.

On the other hand, I did have the confidence to order the celebrated Onomichi ramen at an establishment in the town. An amazing meal at 900 Yen, which is (I'm almost embarrassed to write) about £4.50 at current exchange rates:
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The second thing is cats. Onomichi is town of cats (which is presumably where the tails come from). Many of the cats are real, feral ones, lovingly fostered by the human population, but many are the inhabitants of stocks and stones, shrines and signs, and the twisty paths in the hills lead to many cat-haunted nooks, as you can see...

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Clearly a lot of these displays are old and/or in relative disrepair, but that is far from detracting from their charm, at least to me. Rather, it helps create what one of the signs I saw described as "cat Ihatov" - a word borrowed from Kenji Miyazawa, who made his home of Iwate into a kind of palimpsestic enchantment, Ihatov, overlaying the quotidian. Onomichi is that, too, for those with eyes to see - which are, needless to say, cat's eyes. I ate lunch in a rather hidden restaurant called 'Owl's House' on one of these little paths, naturally choosing the 'Meow Pizza' with its sardines and bonito flakes. Two of the local feral cats sat inside watching me as I ate.

All of which brings me to the third charm of Onomichi - and actually my initial reason for wanting to visit - which is that it was the setting for the 2005 anime series, Kamichu! - a truly charming story of a middle-school girl, Yurie, who awakes one morning to discover that she has become a Shinto kami. This is not, however, a chunibyou story - i.e. the tale of a middle-schooler with delusions of divine power. Yurie, a shy and unassertive girl, doesn't really know what to do with her new status, or even what she might represent as a divine being.

Anyway, I learned from various web sources that not only was Onomichi the setting, but that its geography was adhered to particularly closely - which indeed I found to be the case, from the ferry that takes Yurie between home and school, to the shrine where her friend Matsuri lives and the many other places featured in the series.

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By far the most moving thing to me, though, was seeing the school Yurie and her friends attended. I first saw it from above, coming down one of the steep slopes, so I had a good view of the roof:

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It was all there! The roof where Yurie first exercised her powers as a god! The raised part where Kenji held his solo calligraphy club! Even the ladder connecting the two!

Now, because I write about the motivations for literary and anime pilgrimages in my academic work you mustn't imagine that I'm immune to such things myself. On the contrary, I found the sight profoundly moving, and all the more so when, as I got closer, I realised that Yurie's school was no longer a school. The building had clearly not been used in some years. The gate to the playground was open, so I was able to look around.

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Not the least affecting was the set of swings, now consisting of the frame only, the swings themselves having been removed. ("What's their history?" "A 鞦韆". That's a free pun for fans of Shakespeare, playground equipment and ephemerality.)

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I don't know why the school closed, but as we are all aware, Japan's birthrate has been declining steadily and Onomichi's own population has begun to shrink. It's all a long way from 2005, still more from the 1980s, when the anime is actually set. (I did not find anybody in the town who remembered the anime, for that matter - not that I asked everyone. Just a couple of Ema at Misode Tenman-gu shrine - Matsuri's shrine - commemorating the 20th anniversary of the series, among many others praying to enter, or graduate successfully from, Hiroshima University.) I hope that Yurie can tame the poverty god, as she did in the series, in which she helped him become a cat.

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Having visited Onomichi, I also now understand why they made an episode based on Fight Club, but with cats. Or at least, I understand the cats bit.

Anyway, Onomichi is great, and you should visit it - tomorrow if possible, but at any rate very soon.
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I finished my last full day in Tokyo for now by meeting Yuki for lunch at a Taiwanese place, followed by mitsuan, and finally dinner with Miho and Yuko, where we talked over our slow-burn project to research chirimenbon (books made in the Meiji and Taisho eras for Western tourists, usually telling Japanese folk tales and translated by some notable authors of the time such as Lafcadio Hearn). Here is a lovely view of the three would-be researchers outside a Christmassy Tokyo Joshidai:

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On Wednesday I met my friend Mami at Haneda, and we flew to Nagasaki for a couple of days. I'd long wanted to visit, not least because this is the city that was the only toe-hold for direct contact between Japan and the West (more specifically the Dutch) from the 1630s to the 1850s - i.e. for most of the Edo period, when Japan had a policy of isolation (often known as sakoku). Even the Dutch, who were there purely as traders, were confined to a small artificial island known as Dejima - about 120/75m. (This was not reclaimed land, as I had somehow imagined, but was formed by a cutting a canal through a small peninsula.)

Dejima is no longer an island, but they've done a fine reconstruction job. Life there was rather more spacious than one might have enjoyed on a ship of the era, but it must have been tantalising being just a short bridge's width from the rest of the city. Nagasaki citizens weren't allowed in, either - though an exception seems to have been made for prostitutes.

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The tablet computer in the last picture shows Nagasaki as it would have looked at the time, with a clear view to the mouth of the bay - rather than with a bunch of buildings in the way.

Nagasaki is, by Japanese standards, a very cosmopolitan city, with its relative proximity to the Asian mainland (it has a famous Chinatown) and its history of Dutch and, before that, Portugese trade - which can be seen in the ubiquitous Castella cakes. Here and there, though, a trace of the old sakoku spirit still remains, as in this pair of QR codes, where the Japanese "Guidance to business opening hours" has been Englished simply as "For foreigner" - which felt a little on the nose!

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There's more to Nagasaki than Dejima, not least in terms of food. Most famous of all perhaps is Nagasaki champon, which, having been invented in Nagasaki by a Chinese restaurant owner, is as Japanese as chicken tikka masala is British. We sampled it in the original restaurant:

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Nagasaki bay, when seen from above, sans buildings, is lovely. Other highlights included the trams (I'm a sucker for a tram, and this is the third Japanese city I've seen them in after Matsuyama and Hakodate) and a really charming bookshop-cum-picture-book museum, which had something of the air of the Ghibli Museum in its architecture:

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We also took a day to visit Hui Ten Bosch - the Dutch theme park. I'm not sure what I was expecting, but it definitely wasn't this:

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And yet, in retrospect, how could it have been otherwise? Actually, Huis Ten Bosch is on a truly grand scale, and in terms of recreating buildings it puts even British Hills in Fukushima in the shade. Highly recommended if you find yourself on the shores of Omura bay with time on your hands!

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I said my goodbyes to Mami on Saturday and started working my way back to Tokyo, albeit by a very circuitous route. First stop was Miyajima, home of the famous floating torii gate. This was the one night of the trip when I splashed out on a ryokan, mostly so that I could stay overnight on Itsukushima island (where Miyajima is located). I'd been told that it was easier to beat the crowds if one stayed overnight, though to be honest the crowds weren't that big - no doubt because of the season. (There were, however, more Westerners in evidence here than anywhere else I've stayed.) This meant that I was able to experience the shrine about both low and high tides:

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It also got me this view from my bedroom window:

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And, of course, ryokan style meals. This was breakfast, before and after the battle:
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Altogether, an amazing place. The next day I set off on the next leg of my journey, to the place I'm writing this entry. But where is that place? Tune in next time to find out!

Fuyu Diary

Dec. 16th, 2025 01:51 am
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2025 has been quite a year, the second half being a distinct improvement on the first. The first six months saw various troubles come my way, including a) the threat of redundancy for me and my Cardiff colleagues; b) my brother having a serious stroke; c) the Supreme Court changing the meaning of the Equalities Act to the opposite of that intended by its authors, and the EHRC turning that up to 11; and d) the roof having to be removed from my house and rebuilt, due to a design flaw in its construction.

On these various fronts - work, family, societal, domestic - 2025 took quite a scunner to me, and the feeling's been mutual. However, the second half has mitigated some of these issues. The threat of redundancy passed, at least for me; my brother is recovering, although it's a long road; the EHRC appears to have overreached itself and its more radically exclusionary policies are getting some pushback, though we're currently in a very fragile place and the country is being kept in a perpetual ferment against imaginary enemies, of whom I am but one; and the roof situation is (almost) resolved, with the scaffolding coming down just yesterday.

Nevertheless, I needed a holiday, so when my daughter told me that she'd be away for Christmas I saw the opportunity to come to Japan on my own for a couple of weeks, which is where I am now - staying, for the moment at a friend's flat in Akasaka. The area is full of embassies (my friend and her husband are both translators/interpreters among other things, so it's handy for work) and the new Prime Minister lives about 10 minutes' walk away, so it's quite a swanky area, though the swank is mostly hidden behind high walls and fences.

Coming to Japan these days is in large part about seeing friends. I took Naoko and Eric, the flat owners, to dinner on the first night, and the next day went to a lovely party at Miho's, where I discovered that my Japanese is still good enough to have good conversations, and even (like everyone else) to make a little speech, even if my jetlagged appetite wasn't quite up to making the most of the goodies begroaning the table.

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Yesterday I took a side trip to Kawagoe in Saitama - just a 45 minute train from Ikebukuro - which contains a district known since the early Edo period as 'Koedo' or 'Little Edo'. If you're based in Tokyo it's probably the easiest place to get to if you want to see 'old-time' Japanese shops and houses, which escaped the various depredations of the twentieth century. It's also a good place to buy a pickled cucumber, as I did in honour of former tenant Yuko, whose grandfather (I think it was) used to be a cucumber farmer in the area.

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Kawagoe seems to be the kind of place that everyone knows about, but despite (or because of) being so easy to get to surprisingly few Tokyo-ites have actually visited, and I will be recommending it highly to my friends, as I do to you.

This is my first time in Japan in December, so I'm not sure it's a fair comparison, but I've been struck by the relative sparcity of tourists. In particular, there are very few Chinese here, no doubt in large part because the Chinese government (which has taken offence at some of the new PM's more combative remarks) has discouraged people from visiting. It's not quite 2022 levels, but this is the first time in a long time - certainly in Tokyo - that I've see so few foreigners, other than in the mirror.

Then to the 'Blue Cave' illuminations in Harajuku/Shibuya, where I met up with Yoshiko, who translated my book into Japanese, before going with her to meet her publisher, Manabe, in the fanciest tonkatsu place I've ever seen, The Pretty Pork Factory - with an extensive menus that allows you to choose the breed of pig and the cut of meat, for an experience of fine-tuned gourmandism.

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As you'll have noticed, there's no escaping Christmas in this non-Christian country, even if you wished to. I've been Whamageddoned several times, and in Kawagoe I was even treated to Noddy Holder telling me that it was Christmas at the top of his voice, not far from this fish and chip van. Not that I've any objection!

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Reverse reasoning, for want of a better name, is something I've always found charming. What do I mean by 'reverse reasoning'? I'll give you an example from British Children's Literature in Japanese Culture. In that book, I recount the life of Momoko Ishii, the great translator, editor, publisher, critic, librarian, novelist and general powerhouse of Japanese children's publishing in the twentieth century. As a young graduate in English literature she was working for the writer and publisher Kan Kikuchi when the prime minister, Tsuyoshi Inukai, was assassinated - an event that marked the country's descent into military government. Kikuchi was acquainted with Inukai's son, and recommended Ishii as someone who could organise the deceased prime minister's personal library. In this way she became friendly with the Inukai family, and happened to be in the house one Christmas Eve, where she was presented by Inukai Jr.'s two children with a copy of The House at Pooh Corner, which they had been given by a friend recently returned from England but were of course unable to read. Ishii sat with them, translating as she went, and was overwhelmed by the experience to the extent that she devoted the rest of her life to children's literature. (This is the short version, of course.)

Anyway, later in the book, I write:

It is a sobering reflection that, if Tsuyoshi Inukai had not been assassinated, Momoko Ishii would not have become close to Ken Inukai’s family, would not have found the copy of The House at Pooh Corner under the Christmas tree and would quite possibly never have pursued a career in children’s books. To suggest that the world of Japanese children’s literature therefore owes Inukai’s assassins a debt would be perverse, but it is a striking example of the arbitrary consequences of human actions, especially when large enterprises depend disproportionately on the actions of a few individuals.


The 'perverse' conclusion I mention is what I would call 'reverse reasoning' (but surely there's a better name?). Another example: I used to tease my former lodger, Rei, by saying that she was only able to come to Bristol because Tokugawa Ieyasu won the battle of Sekigahara. The reasoning was that: Tokugawa was thus able to establish his capital at Edo, which created a demand for soy sauce, which the Kikkoman company (upriver at Noda) was able to supply, becoming rich in the process, and in due course the Kikkoman-dominated Noda chamber of commerce was able to fund the scholarship which paid for Rei's travel.

This way of reasoning, or rather the evident ropiness of it, is what makes some early detective stories creak a bit. (Yes, I'm thinking of the opening conversation in 'The Murders in the Rue Morgue', and if you didn't guess that you are no Dupin.)

Anyway, I was delighted to find recently that there's a Japanese expression that plays with the same phenomenon: "When the wind blows, the barrel makers prosper." Here, the sequence goes as follows:

The wind blows dust into the air.
The dust increases cases of blindness.
The increased numbers of blind people mean that there are more shamisen players (an instrument traditionally played by the blind).
The increased demand for shamisens (traditionally covered in cat skin) reduces the number of cats.
The lack of cats means that the number of rats increases.
The extra rats, lacking food, are reduced to chewing barrels.
This makes extra work for barrel makers, boosting their profits.

The real problem with this way of thinking is that it fails to recognise the assymetry between cause and effect. Look back down the garden of forking paths and you see the one route you took. From the other end, you are dazzled by infinite possibilities. This is why it's easier to analyse a completed chess game than it is to write a chess program. The branching factor is too high - and in life it's higher still.

Still, the thought of being able to analyse things forwards in the way we habitually analyse them backwards is certainly appealing. Presumably there is a 'proper' name for it, better than 'reverse reasoning' - but what might it be?
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I'll be leaving for the UK tomorrow, so here is the final instalment of my Japan blog for this time. There's a lot to pack in, though, so some may have to wait until I get back.

After Kanazawa, I spent some days working fairly uneventfully at the Prefectural Library. Perhaps my most interesting experience was cooking and eating sanma (the Pacific saury), a delicious fish that can't be bought in the UK and even in Japan is a strictly seasonal autumn treat, to the extent that its kanji - 秋刀魚 - mean "autumn blade fish". This one was gutted when I bought it, but when I went back for a second time I did the deed myself, using this gruesome but undeniably effective technique:

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Anyway, last Friday I set off for the second time to Kyoto, where I met an old Cardiff PhD student (now a lecturer at one of the private universities there) for coffee, before walking to the Kyoto Railway Museum, by way of Umekoji park cafe, which sold a really tasty curry and rice for 1000 yen, should you ever be passing. This was all part of my Thomas the Tank Engine side project, and although all traces of the Thomas exhibition that had been held at the museum a few years ago were gone, they were still selling the Thomas Goes to Kyoto book that had been a spin-off:

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Several scenes in the book take place in the Museum itself, so it was well worth the detour. In any case, though I can't pretend that I'm very interested in trains, the location of the museum at a kind of railway intersection, with commuter trains going in one direction, shinkansen in another, and tourist steam trains in a third, was undeniably cool.

I met my friend Mitsuko later, and she drove me to her home in the depths of the Hyogo countryside (by way of a rather nice tonkatsu place in Kameoka), where I spent the night. The next day Mitsuko had booked a washi-making session not far from her house, which I admit made me nervous, because when it comes to crafts I a) am hopeless and b) get frustrated with people's expectation that I not be hopeless. But actually this was not a very onerous task at all. One begins by repeatedly dipping a rectangular sieve in a bath that contains the not-quite-dissolved bark of a tree, until you have a layer of sludge that serves as the background to your creation - then add various colours, motifs, leaves and like, as you wish. After that, the sopping masterpiece is handed over and you go off for an hour while it is pressed and/or dried. Simples.

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By my standards, this is an artistic triumph.

While we were waiting, we visited a nearby temple, and I caught my first sight of 紅葉 (kouyou), or the turning of the autumn leaves, which is as big a thing in Japan as in New England, but has been rather delayed this year. Between the leaves, the moss and the mist, Hyogo showed itself to advantage.

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At the temple there was a place where those who had died infancy were commemorated by rows and rows of small baby statues, some with bibs reading (in English) "Pretty baby", and toys slowly fading and cracking in the mountain weather.

I didn't photograph it.

I met up with Yuka later that day in Osaka, then made my way home. Sunday saw me having lunch with Irina in Fuse, and on Monday, the destination was the National Ethnographic Museum in the north of the city, just next to the park where the 1970 Expo was held - presided over the the Tower of the Sun, which was apparently inspired by both Jomon and South American forms. I was lucky enough to meet it when the sun was casting a rainbow at its back:

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I was there to see my friend Eriko, who now works at the Museum. What a wonderful place for an anthropologist to find herself! I met several of her colleagues, and they seem like a great bunch. The museum itself took a global perpsective, and was divided by continent. Here I am in the Japanese section, for example:

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Those of you who have pored over British Children's Literature in Japanese Culture will no doubt remember the passage describing the anthropological exhibition known as the Human Pavilion, held at the Fifth National Industrial Exposition in Ōsaka in 1903, where Okinawans, Ainu, Koreans, Taiwanese and Chinese were to have been displayed. (The Chinese, slated to have been represented by a woman with bound feet and a man smoking opium, succeeded in removing themselves after an official protest.) Significantly, no
mainland Japanese or Western nations were considered for inclusion. The modern museum, though I'm sure the researchers working there spread their nets much more widely, partly reproduces this approach in its selection of exhibits. The Ainu and Okinawans still get disproportionate exposure, while the American section - heavy as it is on Latin American and Native American culture - is notable for the virtual absence of any hint that the United States exists, and may even have a culture of potential interest to anthropologists. It seems that, as far as museums are concerned, you are still more visible if you're poor rather than rich, brown rather than white, rural rather than urban, traditional rather than contemporary.

I put in a final day at the Prefectural Library on Tuesday to bid farewell to Yasuko and her colleagues, then had dinner in the Korean quarter of Tsuruhashi with Saeko, a friend of my old Japanese teacher, Yuko - and quite a feast it was.

Today I devoted to mooching around, buying souvenirs and packing. I'd thought of visiting Osaka Castle, having watched Shogun only a few months ago, but after I accidentally got out at the wrong stop I took it as a sign that this was not meant to be, and walked instead to Tennoji, with its pleasant park and zoo, and touristy Shinsekai (New World) quarter, dominated by the Hitachi Tower.

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Altogether this has been a very enjoyable trip - I seem to have packed in far more than a month's worth! Tomorrow and the next day will be taken up by a rather arduous journey home with an eight-hour stopover in Shanghai, so wish me luck. I hope to see you safely back in Bristol!
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I first visited Kanazawa seven years ago or more, in July 2017. I was looking forward to the city's famous seafood, and afterwards the Hida beef of Takayama, my next stop. Alas, I was suffering from heatstroke at the time and had no appetite. More, the Airbnb I'd booked was, while not bad, a bit more basic than I'd counted on. Nor could I find the famous Kyoto-like district called Higashi Chaya, and altogether it was a bit miserable.

This time, I was visiting with my friend Mami (who made half of a pincer movement from her home in Gunma, while I came north from Osaka), and we stayed in a decent though not luxurious hotel. Unusually (apparently), the weather was perfect for the whole weekend, and we were able to enjoy food, see sights, and altogether lay the ghost of Kanazawa past. I got to eat a fair amount of sea food, including the famous (apparently) nodoguro, or black-throated sea perch:

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... which was nice, though it didn't stand out from the amazing sea food in general...

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One of the highlights was going to see the famous gardent of Kenrokuen, built by the Maeda clan back in the day, and considered one of the three most beautiful gardens in Japan. I did manage to drag my aching body over there seven years ago, and even ate a soft-serve ice cream covered in the gold leaf that is Kanazawa's other speciality. If you trawl back to July 2017 in this LJ you will see me there. This time, however, we were able to enjoy it lit up at night, along with a solo violin concert given from a traditional tea house from across the lake. It was a magical experience, though one sadly difficult to convey with a very ordinary Samsung Galaxy phone camera and equivalent skills:

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That said, we went back the next day to enjoy the same scene by daylight:

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The two-legged lantern in the last picture is the Kotoji Toro and is particularly famous, appearing as a kind of symbol of Kanazawa on various local goods and reproduced in various places worldwide. Why, you ask? I wish I knew, though I wouldn't be surprised to hear that someone has taken it as proof that there were alien spacecraft in the Edo era.

We also managed to find Higashi Chaya, home of geiko and haunt of gapers, of whom we were two:

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It's only a small district - and indeed, in many ways Kanazawa - far smaller an area than the size of Wales, or even Bristol - is a kind of chibi-Kyoto, but it has its own distinct charm and pride, and the castle and the surrounding park are delightful, especially in such perfect weather - which, I gather, is not typical for that region.

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Kanazawa is the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture, and very close to the Noto Peninsula, which was devastated by an earthquake at the start of January, and since by floods and landslides, so we wanted to support the economy if only in a small way. (There were parts even of relatively unaffected Kanazawa Castle where you could see them still doing repairs from that time.) This document holder shows the Peninsula as a thumb, being helped by the rest of Japan...

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Altogether, it was a very good trip - I always have fun with Mami-san!
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After a couple of quiet days (spent looking at early translations of Tom Brown's Schooldays, since you ask), today I went to Kyoto to meet my old PhD supervisor and his wife, who happened to be visiting as well. They lived for a year or two in the city (and before that in Kobe) during the 1990s, rather after I'd finished my PhD and more immediately after the 1995 Kobe earthquake. This was their first time back since those days, and they reported that the place really hadn't changed much in essentials.

Anyway, we had a lovely few hours hanging out in Kyoto, walking around the garden at Heian Jingu (where, despite the many headlines about overtourism in Kyoto, there were very few tourists to be seen, Western or otherwise) and then at a soba restaurant.

Afterwards I had tea with Shino Hishida, a doctoral student whom I'd met at the Diana Wynne Jones conference in August, and we ate parfait together.

I don't have any adventures to relate, but check out the pretty pictures!

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A week has passed since I last posted here. If I've remained silent that long it's not because nothing has happened, but because many things have, which tessellated so efficiently as to leave few crevices of time in which to write them up.

First, let me mention the very pleasant evening I had in Fuse, less than 15 minutes' walk from my Osaka AirBnB, with my friend Irina and her fresh-minted husband Marko. Marko, an excellent cook as well as an Olympian kendo contestant, rustled up some delicious pumpkin pasta, and Irina read tarot for me - oddly enough, the first time anyone has ever done this, despite my having so many witches among my acquaintance. Altogether, a good evening.

Shortly after that, though, I was on my way (via Mishima) to Fuji-Q Highland, where I stayed a night in search of Thomas the Tank Engine memorabilia - for Fuji-Q is home, not only to one of the world's most intense roller coasters, Fujiyama, but also to Thomas Land, a theme park within a theme park.

On the way there, I celebrated the Tokaido Shinkansen's 60th birthday by way of a commemorative ekiben:

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The day was rather wet when I arrived, and my window (orientated towards towards the mountain) showed nothing but grey. Fuji was not receiving visitors:

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View of Mount Fuji from my hotel window

I comforted myself that, should the Big One happen while I was there, at least the drizzle would help put the fire out. (I know that's not how volcanoes work.) Meanwhile, I had a very nice pizza at the hotel's Macaroni Restaurant (I recommend the fennel sausage). According the hotel website, the pizza was cooked over wood harvested from the slopes of Fuji itself, but honestly it was hard to tell.

The following morning, Fuji had decided to show herself, and did so in various modes and moods over the next few hours:

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As you can see, Fuji has many cloud coats, but unfortunately no snow at all. It's the latest in the year that it's been snowless since records began, apparently. Meanwhile, I didn't have to wait for Fuji-Q Highland to see Thomas merchandise. The convenience store in the hotel (which contained an alarming instruction at the bottom of its shopping baskets)...

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.... also had a stock of such typically Sodorian items as Thomas chopsticks and Thomas furikake.

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Most excitingly, there was even a Thomas-themed room directly opposite mine, which I was able to sneak into the following afternoon when they were doing the cleaning. Don't you yearn to stay here?

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(Okay, me neither.) I won't spam you with the many, many Thomas-related pictures I took inside the park itself. I'll just add, for variety, that despite not being by any means a roller coaster afficianado I did have a go on the notorious Fujiyama - largely because you're only allowed to do so if you're under 65, and with just 3.5 years left it seemed necessary to give it a go. Also, I'd paid for a ticket, after all. No loose objects allowed on board, of course, so no photos, but this is what I was up against:

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I can't pretend that no pang of regret assailed me as I crested its perilous ridge, but despite the 3.5 G-force and a few rattled bones it wasn't as bad as the numerous warning posters had suggested. I'm glad I did it once and have no desire to do it again, as the wise are supposed to say of climbing Fuji itself.

I then spent five days in Tokyo, based in a budget hotel near Shinjuku station, which suited me well enough despite its budgetness. I'd love to tell you about it all in detail, but essentially it consisted of meeting various people (academics and ex-lodgers, primarily) for lunch or dinner, as well as giving a couple of lectures - or rather the same lecture twice. (It was on giants in Victorian children's fiction, if you're interested.) Here's a breakdown:

30th: Dinner with Haruka and Yuko in an Omotesando izakaya (mostly seafood, but also chicken thighs of miraculous softness)
31st: Lecture at Taisho University in Sugamo, lunch there (fish) with Yoshiko and her publisher Manabe-san, dinner with Satomi (meat 'n' mochi gratin) in Nishiogikubo
1st: Meeting and lunch with Hiroe in Yokohama University's bright and shiny Minato Mirai campus (salad and Provencal friands), tea with Yuki in Iidabashi (just coffee for me), dinner with Miho, Hiroshi and their dog Chubby in Nakano (oden and yakisoba)
2nd: Lunch with Rei and Shuzo in Kanda (moussaka, blue cheese and apple pie), catching up with conference and attending reception at Kyoritsu University in Jimbocho (various).
3rd: Keynote at Kyoritsu, lunch with Hiroko in Jimbocho (chicken curry), lavish post-conference party back at Nakano (various and plentiful)

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On the morning of the 4th I caught the shinkansen back to Osaka, and went straight to the suburb where my friend Caron Cooper was giving a scone-making workshop. Caron owns Fosse Farmhouse, the B'n'B near Castle Combe that was used as the model for the anime Kiniro Mosaic, and many of her guests over recent years have been KinMoza fans on pilgrimage. This event was especially for those fans, and she was using my former lodger Ayako as an interpreter. Two of her other helpers were nieces of my friend Noriko, to whom I'd also introduced her, so I felt I had a bit of a stake in the event. Anyway, Caron did a good job of recreating rural Wiltshire in suburban Osaka, and the scones were excellent.

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And so, "home" to Higashiosaka and my own little AirBnB. Today, I did almost nothing at all!
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This has been a rather train-orientated couple of days. On Saturday I made my way to the other side of the city and the Katano branch of the Keihan line, where (following a tip from my colleague at the Prefectural Library) I had heard that there was a Thomas the Tank Engine promotion ongoing - connected tangentially, I believe, with the forthcoming 2025 Osaka Expo.

I wasn't sure what it would entail, but I had reason to hope that there would be a 'wrapped' train running the line, decked out with characters from the Thomas franchise. And so there was: here was my first glimpse of the Thomas train pulling in to Miya no Saka station:

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The decorations were pretty extensive, inside and out:

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The sign showing tHe name of each station on the line was dedicated to a different member of Thomas's intimate circle, with the terminus at Kisaichi representing Thomas himself. There were various other Thomas-themed displays there too, including a floral Thomas Halloween tribute.

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Altogether they'd put in an impressive amount of effort - I've certainly never seen anything this elaborate in the UK, even when visiting a Thomas-themed steam weekend. And it paid dividends, at least in the sense that when I visited there were several small children who were clearly making a pilgrimage, even though the theme has been in place since April.

Kisaichi was virtually countryside, and there wasn't much within walking distance except a cafe that was already full, so in the end I got back on the train and returned to downtown Osaka. However, I was intrigued to read about the nearby Iwafune Shrine, with its cave system and tight squeezes between boulders to reach the sanctuary. It's somewhere I would very much like to visit, though it's not easy to get to if you don't have a car, and even then the cave seems to be closed more often than not. English-speaking YouTubers appear not to have discovered it yet, but here's a walk-through video. There's also a 12-metre boat-shaped rock (Iwafune means "boulder boat"), which was apparently used by a kami to descend from heaven back in the day.

Otherwise, I've done a little light souvenir hunting, but basically had a quiet time. Only, returning to my apartment via the Kintetsu Line earlier, I found an even more elaborately 'wrapped' train, this one advertising the charms of nearby Nara and its bowing deer:

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Pretty as the outside was, the detailing of the interior was still more impressive, going as far as deer-patterened upholstery:

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And - wait - what's that on the strap-handles???

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Yes, each handle is being nibbled, as if it were one of the senbei used by tourists to feed the animals in Nara, by a little plastic deer.

This is very "extra", I know - no one would have complained if the little plastic deer had been absent - but the extraness is the point.
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A few weeks ago I began to give a potted version of my trip to Japan last March-April, with my daughter and her boyfriend. I didn't get very far, because Flickr (where I keep my pictures for importing to LJ) was playing up - and still is, as far as my main computer is concerned. However, I'm now on a laptop, so I'm going to put just a few highlights here. Just a few because I'm now actually back in Japan again, and will be blogging properly (i.e. in something more approaching real time) from hereon out, d.v.

So, we left you just as we were about to leave Tokyo for Hakone, and thence Kyoto. I had booked - not quite a ryokan but an onsen hotel, situated on the old Tokaido in Hakone, for daughter and boyfriend (D&B) and the next day we made an attempt to take the funiculuar railway (which they call a cable car) and the cable car (which they call a ropeway) to Ashinoko, with the hopes of catching a glimpse of Fuji. Alas, we were prevented by a thunderstorm, so had to go back by the same route, thence to Odawara Castle, where many young boys were pretending to be ninjas (a ninja TV series partly filmed there having been recently broadast (House of Ninjas, if you have Netflix). Fuji did peep out in time to be spotted from the Shinkansen, however.

Photos Beneath )
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For years, I've been meaning to go Pywll Mawr, aka the Big Pit - a coal-mine-turned-heritage centre, not far from Pontypool. I see the sign for it every time I drive to work in Cardiff, and my daughter even went on a school trip about 13 years ago, but I haven't had the motivation to follow in her footsteps until Monday, when I took Yuko and Moe. The main spur was Moe's wish to soak in the background to the Ghibli film, Laputa: Castle in the Sky, which was partly based on Miyazaki's visit to the South Welsh coalfields in 1984, at the time of the miners' strike - which inspired the feisty spirit of the miners in his film, but also its landscape.

Anyway, partly due to the weather, but mostly the place itself, we had a great time. We started off with a visit to the nearby Blaenavon Ironworks, or what's left of them, with their furnaces, workers' cottages, balance tower and the rest.

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The coal mine did not allow cameras - or indeed anything with a battery - underground. This is because it's still legally classed as a working mine, even though it's 44 years since any methane-releasing mining went on down there. But believe me when I tell you that it was quite an experience, going down long tunnels that wholly justified the necessity of helmets in terms of their height. I had a strange, Baudrillardesque sense that this must be a real mine because it so strongly resembled all the fake mines I've seen in various films and TV programmes over the years - my only point of reference.

Certainly, the landscape round about did seem quite Laputa-esque (with just a hint of Ivor the Engine). And this point-by-point comparison backs up that impression.

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Red Rice

Sep. 13th, 2024 09:26 am
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I learned the other day that it's traditional in Japanese homes, when a girl has her first period, for the family to be served red rice (sekihan). In the explanation I initially heard, this was described as a way of announcing the happy news to the family, where it might be rather indelicate or embarrassing to say it aloud.

First thought: how is this going to be less embarrassing? Apparently many young Japanese women agree, because the custom is becoming less common, although my lodgers assure me that it very much still exists.

My second thought was wider of the mark. Admittedly, I didn't seriously think that they made the rice red by mixing in the daughter's menstrual blood (they use adzuki beans), but I did think it might symbolise that blood. I briefly wondered how they might celebrate a son's first wet dream - by smearing some paper glue on a napkin, perhaps? (But there is no culture that celebrates that momentous event, as far as I know.) But no, it's just that red is the general colour of celebration, and red rice can be used to celebrate other things, too - birthdays and the like. I was relieved to discover this, but also just a little disappointed.
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In the comments on my catch-up-and-apology post the other day, [personal profile] aerodrome1 was kind enough to ask for more details of my latest Japan trip. This will be a very edited account, but here and in a few later entries you'll find some highlights from that tour, which took place in late March and early April, and involved 16 days in Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto and Matsuyama (the last just to shake things up a bit), with side-quests to Osaka and Kobe (the latter very much for the beef). It was the first time I'd been travelled in Japan with anyone else, which made for a new kind of experience in which I was forced (albeit not unwillingly) to don the mantle of the Old Japan Hand, leading my daughter and her boyfriend trepidatiously into Looking-Glass Land.

This was actually our third attempt at the trip. It was scuppered four years ago by COVID and last year by BF's loss of his passport - but this time we made it to Japan. It almost didn't happen, even so - a motorway crash meant that our coach from Bristol to Heathrow was diverted (along with all the other motorway traffic) along many a busky backlane, and I was apparently overheard saying sepulchrally "We're doomed, doomed," or words to that effect, but in fact we weren't doomed after all, and landed at Haneda quite handily and on time - even though we were the last to board.

D & BF are big Pokemon fans, and a noticeable Pokemon bias characterised what was, in many ways, a standard "first time in Japan" Golden Route tour. That's why we stayed in Ikebukuro's Sunshine City to begin with, home of the Ikebukuro Pokemon Centre - but we also got a lot of use from the Observation Deck at the top, and the not-so-micro-pig cafe below. [Note: I normally import my photos via Flickr, but am having trouble doing so right now, so apologies for the weird appearance of some of these, which have come via indirect crook'd ways.] D&BF were both rather awestruck by the horizonless extent of the biggest city on Earth - as well they might be.

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It was a family holiday, but that didn't mean we neglected to see old friends, and even give a little lecture - in this case at Taisho University (by way of the Shibuya Pokemon Centre), followed by a gathering of children's lit friends at a Sugamo izakaya. The Ghibli Museum with Satomi and Akira also featured in this part, as well as a cat cafe and a rather splendid lunch in Nakano with Miho and Hiroshi (to say nothing of Chubby the Shiba inu), before heading off to Hakone - which will wait for next time.

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Yesterday I went to Diana Wynne Jones's house in Clifton/Hotwells, to take part in an unveiling ceremony for a plaque, installed by the Clifton and Hotwells Improvement Society, or CHIS (pronounced CHIZZ, a la Nigel Molesworth).

I wasn't sure how many people to expect, and considering that it had been raining for the previous 48 hours my hopes were not high, but in fact we got away with its being merely overcast and about 50 people turned up, most having to stand in the communal front garden of the Polygon. Diana's son Micky said a few words, then I weighed in with a brief appreciation, and finally the Lord Lieutenant of Bristol, Peaches Golding. Here we all are, with the plaque and (far right) the chair of the Society. Afterwards, Prosecco and mini pork pies. (Other snacks were available but that was my selection - an easy choice.)

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I was with my lodger Moe, and Micky's wife Noriko happened to be wearing a rather lovely kimono made from a fabric (Ōshima-tsumugi) only produced in the island where Moe's mother comes from - Amami Ōshima. They dye it using flowers and a kind of mud unique to the island, apparently.

However, the most interesting kimono-related factoid came when someone remarked how complex they must be to put on, and I mentioned (more or less the only thing I know about the process) that one must always fold the left side of the kimono over the right side, as the reverse style is used only for dead people. Moe concurred, but added that, as a nurse in Osaka (where she worked mostly with elderly people), she often had the task of reversing the kimono after death - an action akin to that of closing a dead person's eyes. It makes perfect sense, but I admit it had never occurred to me before.
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Well, I don't think I've ever had such a long period of LJ truancy. It's not that I've been depressed, inactive or in a vegetative state, but I did get to a point where I wasn't sure that I had much to say that would have been of general interest here. For example, I've had plenty of fun trips with my lodger, Yuko, and more recently, Moe, my new, second lodger, who was in Bristol for a while 5 years ago and no doubt crops up in entries from that time but had to return to Japan (where she is a nurse) because of Covid. Each adventure had its own incidents - but were they different enough from previous trips to warrant a whole new entry? Perhaps - but in any case, it didn't get done.

I also went to Japan again, this time in the company of my daughter and her boyfriend - my first non-solo trip! For that reason, I didn't blog it as I usually do, because I was too busy inducting these Nipponic neophytes into the ways of that most rewarding country. It was a great two weeks, though, and I think I can safely say that I converted them to something approaching my own state of besotment.

The UK election came and went, and of course I had many thoughts about it all, but none that couldn't have been predicted from earlier entries. Tl;dr, I'm glad the Tories are out, but the possibility of fundamental improvement that flourished briefly under Corbyn is long gone, and Starmer, with his authoritarianism, reheated austerity policies (except for the rich) and lack of any political or moral core, is barely an improvement on - indeed, only marginally different from - Sunak. Also, his health minister seems about as transphobic as Kemi Badenoch could wish.

On the other hand, I got promoted to Professor last month - which was very pleasing. Perhaps it should have happened earlier - I was startled to read in the official letter that I was now (at 61) an "early-career professor" - but I'd never actually applied before, which makes me feel a little like the hapless protagonist of Kafka's short story, 'Before the Law'. It probably means that there were a lot of committees I never had to sit on that I might otherwise have been obliged to chair, but perhaps other, more exciting opportunities would also have come my way? We'll never know.

In general, my own life has been pleasant this last half year. I've enjoyed good health (no recurrence of the detached retina), plentiful friends, my daughter and Will only a ten-minute walk away, and even a blessedly cool summer (though that was not everyone's perspective on it). My cat, Maisie, went missing for 9 days but turned up unharmed under a shipping container at the end of the street, and has now put the whole distressing incident thoroughly behind her. None of this calm weather makes for ideal blogging, perhaps.

Anyway, apologies to whoever might have been wondering about my whereabouts - and indeed to my future self, who may in her dotage wish to use this journal to help sort out her muddled memories. I'll try to do better in future.
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20240123_123543-EDIT


When I was in Hokkaido with my friend Mami in 2022, we visited an exhibition in the Sapporo Clock Tower, where we saw some 道徳 (doutoku) textbooks, sets of stories with accompanying discussion points used to teach ethical behaviour to Japanese primary school children. The stories almost always use schoolchildren as the protagonists, and put them in a position where they have a moral dilemma of some kind. You've accidentally cracked the glass in the tank that houses the class turtle - should you own up? That kind of thing.

Anyway, these books piqued my interest, and Mami was kind enough to send me a few afterwards, which I've been enjoying on and off ever since. I think what interested me was the slightly unfamiliar take on both the analysis of these child-sized dilemmas and what might count as a good solution to them.

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Take this story, for example. It's about a boy whose classmate has been teased by another boy for his supposed resemblance to a monkey. At first, the teased boy seems to take it in good part, and even acts up by making monkey sounds, to his classmates' amusement. But when the protagonist tells his father about it, the father comments: "Are they really just teasing - isn't it more like bullying?"

Thus sensitized, the boy sees the same antics the next day through a different lens, and notices when the teased boy goes quiet and no longer cares to share in the joke. The ringleader continues regardless, however.

Our hero sits through several classes, wondering what would be the best thing to do. How can he stop the bullying? He has no authority to tell them to lay off, but neither can he sit back and watch this go on. Events come to a head when he is directly invited by the teaser-in-chief to join in, or at least to laugh. He finds he can do neither. Instead, he turns away silently and leaves the class, while everyone else looks on in shock.

As a result, the other boy is never teased again.



I don't say this is great literature, or even optimal ethics, but I do savour the difference from how the story would likely have played out in a Western setting, where some kind of confrontation, or at least a speech laying down the moral law in terms, would have been almost inevitable, I think.

Lost Pasts

May. 24th, 2023 08:19 pm
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I've long been interested in stories that take place in futures that were anticipated (by author and characters alike) but never came to pass in reality. Indeed, a couple of years ago I wrote what I think quite a good article on the subject. There, I concentrated on the First World War and its relationship to Golden Age children's fiction, because it's a rich source of such instances, but of course it's not unique. Around the same time I enjoyed reading my friend and colleague Christopher Hood's thriller, Tokyo 2020, topically set at the Olympic games that (at the time of original publication) were set to take place imminently. I think Chris may have since published a slightly amended version that moves the events of Tokyo 2020 to 2021, much as the IOC itself did, but I'll always have a fondness for the story as it was set in that liminal lost future, caught between anticipation and reality.

Lost futures are always fascinating, but I've recently noticed a complementary phenomenon, namely lost pasts. For example, I've just started watching Why Didn't I Tell You a Million Times? on Netflix, a series set partly in 2023 Japan, but with numerous flashbacks to 2021 and 2022 (as well as other times). But this isn't 2021-3 as they actually existed. This is a version of the very recent past in which Coronavirus is simply not a thing. No one wears masks, for one thing - even though pretty much everyone in Japan was wearing masks in reality (and most still are).

It would have been very easy to set the story just a few years earlier, to a point where this would not have been an issue, but the makers have decided to make it ultra-contemporary. They presumably did this with the intention of accentuating its relevance - but it's relevance to a life that Japanese people would like to have been living, not the one they actually did live.

I've noticed the same phenomenon in a few other programmes, such as The Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko House - but this is the first one where they've been so emphatic about the dates, with the constant flashbacks and flashforwards necessitating precise dates being displayed on screen every few minutes.

Have you noticed any other examples of this phenomenon, perhaps outside a Japanese context?
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Oh look, there's going to be a book!

An expensive book, admittedly, but if you a) are rich, b) have access to a library or c) have an interest in Japan, children's books and/or me, please consider ordering it. It will make a cheaper, paperback edition more likely.

Anyway, this has been a labour of love for the last few years, so I hope people read it! (Looks sternly at Literary Studies Deconstructed.)

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I went with my brother to see My Neighbour Totoro at the Barbican last night - an early birthday treat from him. It was an excellent production, which I can't show you any pictures of, on pain of being smothered by soot sprites, but can assure you was wonderfully inventive, visually and aurally.

Why I am I taunting you like this? Well, it's just that having the show broken into two halves brought home to me how much "tighter," from a plot point of view, the first half of the film is than the second. Up to the point where the girls and Totoro make the seeds grow, it's really hard to fault. And then we get the formal climax, or double climax, first with the mother being reported to be dangerously ill, and then Mei going missing as she tries to walk all the way to the hospital carrying some healthy corn that she's just picked, and being believed to have fallen into a nearby pond when the search party finds a slipper like hers.

Except that it's not her sandal, as her sister Satsuki quickly confirms. Mei is actually fine, if temporarily lost. And the mother, when they eventually reach her, turns out not to be that ill either - it was just a cold.

It seems to me there's an obvious alternative plot, which I find it hard to believe that Miyazaki didn't at least consider. In this version - which is also basically the version in Mei's head - the mother really is in danger, and the children save her by bringing her some needful medicine or charm, perhaps carried to the hospital by magical agency. This is the plot of The Magician's Nephew, where a winged horse plays the part of the cat bus, and of many other stories besides. (Likewise, Mei could have fallen into the pond and then been rescued.)

Was Miyazaki holding back on the 'mild threat' with a view to his very young audience? Or was his restraint a more purely artistic decision - a distaste for crude plot trump cards? I don't know, but I report it as I found it.

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